13 fevereiro, 2011

Paris | Haute Couture SS2011 »Part II«

This is the second and the last part of the Couture Week in Paris for Spring Summer 2011!

With:
*Elie Saab, and his 'Oscar' dresses! All women love this guy, and i love him too, because of the fantastic and amazing job that he do in each collection of each season! Just loove!

*Armani Privé, became in a very futuristic way, in a dark mood but with shiny clothes for shiny people!

*Givenchy, by Ricardo Tisci comes with an absolutely brilliant collection, that is one of the best collections for this season (in Couture!). The way that the collection is structured, and the color is worked, make realistic the way that 'Tisci' is think in the fashion industry. His a genius and this collections is part of it!


Elie Saab
There was plenty of décolleté, and sinuous limbs slipping out from skirts that were, at times, almost too split, but what today's show really evoked was the up-to-the-neck missy-ness of Norma Shearer, an Oscar winner from centuries ago. One long tulle and organza gown, piled with flowers at the shoulder and tied with grosgrain at the waist, would surely have driven La Shearer into a paroxysm of desire. Coupled with the exceptionally sweet hair and makeup, this peculiar sense of propriety took Saab's collection into territory that was new for him. It was certainly a world away from the sparks struck by his last Couture show. Just look at the bride—last time, she shimmered with hints of gold. Here, her gown drooped with organza flowers and tatters of mousseline, and her veil was almost shroudlike.

Armani Privé
When Giorgio Armani presented his made-to-order Armani Privé collection near Place Vendôme Monday evening to the likes of Sophia Loren, Jodie Foster, and Olivia Wilde, he was thinking of, Lady Gaga. Clearly, Armani is gaga for Gaga. How else does one explain that shiny molded techno-fabric that looked like it was specially created for Tron (it is, in fact, a silk-nylon blend)? Or the crystal-strung dresses that looked like three-dimensionally rendered animation (and had a touch of the gown he designed for the one-woman multimedia sensation of last year’s Grammy Awards)? Or, indeed, the sleek dome of an ovoid hat, or a glistening cage mask that would be great for the likes of Gaga on the red carpet because, really, who else would be wearing it, while perhaps not so effective for the A-list types Armani has dressed for years.

Givenchy
As you’ll gather at first glance by looking at these photographs, Givenchy did not have a couture show for spring—at least not in the conventional sense. The pictures here show front and back views of each of the long, Japanese-inflected designs Riccardo Tisci made this season—ten dresses which were expressly designed never to be exposed to the roar of the runway. Instead, he hung these clothes suspended in light, in a kind of exhibition, so that both reviewers and clients could take time to view them at inches-range, and reach out and touch, if we wished.
This way of presenting gave Tisci both the opportunity to describe the derivation of his ideas—an abstract homage to the Butoh dancer Kazuo Ohno, who recently died at the age of 103, (with added reference to Japanese robot-toys: the horned hats)—to prove just what goes into the work of couture, and to answer the questions it raised, such as: Why no daywear?

(Photos by Style.com)

(the text's are from Vogue.com, and Style.com [Elie Saab])

07 fevereiro, 2011

Paris | Haute Couture SS2011 »Part I«

As i promise, now i'm comming with the coverage of the entire Paris | Haute Couture Week!

This is »Part I«, and in this post i'll show you:
*Christian Dior by John Galliano, doing what he nows at his best! Amazing dresses inspired at the 'New Look', with soft colors in dégrade, that puts our eyes crying like there's no tomorrow!

*Valentino, now in the hands of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli. They show us magnific dresses in great soft colors, some of them in a quite transparency but all of them soo lovely.

*Jean Paul Gaultier, gave us a incredible show, as always. But this time he mixed the punk look with 'can-can' dolls!! Are you curious? Just read this post 'till the end...


Christian Dior
Shape-wise, there was no deviation from the nipped-waist bar jacket, the pencil-line skirts, the swirling fan-pleat circle skirts, and the grand ball gowns with which Christian Dior dictated postwar fashion. Camp and extravagant as it was, though, in close-up, this wasn’t quite vintage reconstruction to the letter. Galliano’s obsession with the way Gruau caught the fall of light on color was mimicked in fine graduations of tulle minutely collaged in increasing densities to shade in folds of peplum and bubble jackets, the highlights picked out in streaks of sequin, the collar lapels visually blurred with raw-edged trims.

Valentino
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli chose the house specialty, pleating, as a central motif—a good choice, since it's around this spring, and no one can achieve it (with minutely narrow ribbons of lace, or hundreds of fan-like ripples of chiffon, hand-pressed with an iron) like the Valentino seamstresses in Rome. Technique alone, however, can't lift a collection unless it has some connection or contribution to the way fashion is thinking. This one gently hit the mark with its contradictions between long lengths, high collars, and wrist-length sleeves, and the fact that so much was semitransparent (though never blatant). In this curious transitional moment when body-con feels incredibly old, yet girls are reluctant to sacrifice a show of leg, these Valentino dresses—and the quiet eroticism beneath their innocent prettiness—seem poised in exactly the right place.

Jean Paul Gaultier
British punk meets Paris cancan: Oh, it takes genius to make such an appalling-sounding fashion trope even the slightest bit forgiveable. On this occasion, though—barely credible as it may seem—Jean Paul Gaultier took mohawks, studs, and leather jackets, married them with the girls of the Moulin Rouge, and came out with a defining triumph, soaring from grimy guttersnipe-style to a French level of sophistication which makes the rest of the world spit.

Narrative fashion shows can be annoying these days, especially when one’s considering a designer like Gaultier, with a past that wends back to the eighties. But this time, his revisitings of sailor stripes—brilliant horizontal organza ruffles on Lindsey Wixson—and corsetry, now merged into both a tailcoat jacket and a cancan costume, somehow seemed simpler, more relevant, and full of energy.


Photos from Style.com

(the text's are from Vogue.com)

05 fevereiro, 2011

Chanel | Haute Couture »SS2011«


Chanel | Haute Couture
Spring Summer 2011
Tuesday, January 2011, 25th
Paris.


The Fashion Week of Haute Couture was recently in Paris, by the end of January.
My lack of time just delay this and the other posts about this Fashion Week, but I promise that they will be right here in a couple of days!

For me Chanel Haute Couture is always a pleasure to admire, and the many things, like backstage and rehearsals images, that Chanel puts into their web-site Chanel News, are just hours of my life, trying to understand this world, and the wonderfull thing that Haute Couture is nowadays...


With this post I will quote a magnific text, writen by Elisabeth Quin "Haute Couture, Haute Culture..." that are from Chanel News.

Enjoy!


The Chanel Spring-Summer 2011 Haute Couture collection has created a dazzling bridge between the 1920s and the 21st century.
Low waists, slender busts and delicate feet encased in ballerina shoes with transparent ribbons have been combined with the colors of clouds or pearls and waves of shimmering spangles, while embroidered shirts have been paired with Couture jeans that lengthen the legs to infinity… It is a younger look that is lighter than ever, rejecting any kind of bourgeois heaviness. The collection is characterized by total grace and luxurious materials that make their mark with skilled understatement, recapturing a style that came as second nature to Coco Chanel…
Haute Couture is a French national treasure, yet it was invented by an Englishman, Charles Worth, at the time of Napoleon III. Barely a century after it had beheaded its king, France quickly understood that luxury could act as an inimitable ambassador for French expertise.
At that moment, Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, known as Coco, arrived on the scene with her hands in her pockets and a cigarette between her lips. She was surrounded by an air of nonchalance, eternal allure and insane elegance in her wonderfully fluid jersey suits and dresses, which went on to represent a real liberation for women. It seemed a natural step but someone had to invent it, someone had to have the confidence and the talent to understand what women wanted, longed for, even before they knew it themselves. Was Chanel a revolutionary, a prophet? Absolutely!



Photos by Style.com and Chanel News


(the text was writen by Elisabeth Quin at Chanel News in "Haute Couture, Haute Culture...")

03 fevereiro, 2011

New York Fashion Week «FW2011»


New York Fall Winter 2011 Fashion Week Schedule

Thursday, February 10th

9:00 - Nicholas K
09:30 - Porter Grey
10:00 - BCBG MaxAzria
11:00 - Richard Chai
13:00 - Duckie Brown
15:00 - Luca Luca
15:30 - Mara Hoffman
16:00 - Tadashi Shoji
18:00 - Eva Minge
19:00 - Christian Siriano
9:00 - Irina Shabayeva

Friday, February 11th

09:00 - Ruffian
09:30 - Tess Giberson
11:00 - Perry Ellis
12:00 - Farah Angsana
13:30 - Norman Ambrose
14:00 - Rebecca Taylor
15:00 - Rebecca Minkoff
17:30 - Tommy Hilfiger Men's
18:00 - Nicole Miller
18:30 - Joy Cioci
19:00 - Cynthia Rowle
20:00 - Academy of Art University
21:00 - Venexiana

Saturday, February 12th

09:00 - General Idea
10:30 - Binetti
11:00 - Jill Stuart
12:00 - Prabal Gurung
14:00 - ADAM
14:30 - MANDY COON
15:00 - Vivienne Tam
16:00 - Mik Cire
18:00 - Charlotte Ronson
18:30 - Maisonette 1977
19:00 - G-STAR RAW
21:00 - Toni Francesc

Sunday, February 13th

10:00 - Derek Lam
10:30 - Timo Weiland
11:00 - Lela Rose
13:00 - DKNY
14:00 - Calvin Klein Collection Men's
14:15 - Tory Burch
14:30 - Yoana Baraschi
15:00 - Max Azria
16:00 - Diane von Furstenberg
17:00 - Cynthia Steffe
17:00 - Y-3
18:00 - Carmen Marc Valvo
19:00 - Custo Barcelona
19:30 - Behnaz Sarafpour
20:00 - Tommy Hilfiger
21:00 - Zang Toi

Monday, February 14th

09:00 - Jenny Packham
09:30 - Callula Lillibelle
10:00 - Carolina Herrera
11:00 - Carlos Miele
13:00 - Tracy Reese
14:00 - Donna Karan New York
14:30 - Sachin +Babi
15:00 - Monique Lhullier
17:00 - Pamella Roland
18:00 - Betsey Johnson
18:00 - Chado Ralph Rucci
18:30 - GUiSHEM
20:00 - MarcJacobs

Tuesday, February 15th

09:00 - Sergio Davil
09:30 - Trias
10:00 - Badgley Mischka
11:00 - Vera Wang
13:00 - Diesel Black Gold
13:00 - Jen Kao
13:30 - Bibhu Mohapatra
14:00 - Hervé Léger by Max Azria
15:00 - Dennis Basso
16:00 - Marc by Marc Jacobs
18:00 - J. Mendel
19:00 - Tibi
19:30 - Frank Tell
20:00 - Narciso Rodriguez
21:00 - Mackage

Wednesday, February 16th

09:00 - Yigal Azrouël
09:30 - VACCA
10:00 - Michael Kors
11:00 - Nanette Lepore
13:00 - Alexandre Herchcovitch
13:30 - Adrienne Vittadini
15:00 - Milly by Michelle Smith
16:00 - ALLEGRI
16:00 - Helen Yarmak
17:00 - CHRISTIAN COTA
18:00 - Anna Sui
18:30 - Odd Molly
19:00 - Elie Tahari
20:00 - Michael America
20:00 - Proenza Schouler

Thursday, February 17th

10:00 - Ralph Lauren
12:00 - Son Jung Wan
14:00 - Calvin Klein Collection Women's
18:00 - Elene Cassis
19:00 - Naeem Khan
19:30 - LUBLU Kira Plastinina
20:00 - L.A.M.B.
21:00 - Ivana Helsinki

28 janeiro, 2011

Paris | Men's Fashion Week »Part II«

This is »Part II« of my favourite collections of Paris Menswear Fashion Week!

Here i show you:
*Louis Vuitton with desirable bags (as always), in new colours like the a.ma.zing orange in the bags and pants, and (of course!) the magnificent eyewear, that is a trully Must-Have item to 2011/2012Winter season.

*Lanvin, with a marvelous way of layers, with 'turtle-neck sweaters' under a white shirt, which are under a cashmere pullover, and all of this layers are under a beautifull blazer! AWESOME!!!

*Givenchy, that gave us a 'gangsta' collection, with many things that are common in the womans wardrobe, like boots laced up to the knee, and collants under black shorts. Riccardo Tisci puts them in the men's ones to! A trully unexpectable collection with pitbull prints, that in this second are the most wanted items of many guys!

*Balmain, that comes with a collection whitout runwayshow! But with a magnific styling, wich put in the collection a great sense of style and colour/textile mixing. Navy and millitary coats, are the trend of the season (for this brand!), with always a great scarf. I think that the camel coat with fur, are now on the wishlist of soo many people! (Not in mine, btw!)



Louis Vuitton
You know that scene at the beginning of 2001: A Space Odyssey, when they are flying Pan Am Airlines to the moon? That's kinda like the clothes in this Louis Vuitton collection this season: Suits and jackets that are modern but also a bit ahead of the curve, a bit in the future. Clothes that are not for mere plebian jet-setters, but true rocket-setters. When Richard Branson begins regular space flights on Virgin Rockets, we imagine a fair amount of the passengers will be dressed in Vuitton.


Lanvin
You got your full, wide pants and you got your slim pants. That, in a nutshell, is this collection: a mix of opposites. Where a man can wear a dusty-rose jacket, but also a strong fitted black suit or topcoat. It's a lush-feeling collection with a dose of '70s glam and swagger.


Givenchy
Think of it as Samurai B-Boy. Clothes that are rough in their roots (skater-like shorts over black tights) but refined in their cut. These are duds made for dudes like Kanye and Drake: Guys who are not shy about wearing bold tailored classics with an extra wattage of rockstar, featuring pitbull prints, monochromatic mixing, finishes of fur and boots laced up to the knee, and beyond. These clothes are not afraid to swagger.


Balmain
Christophe Decarnin likes to say Balmain Homme isn't a collection; it's a wardrobe. The military jackets that were such a sensation for the ladies have their analogues here in silver-buttoned peacoats. There's a big emphasis on outerwear in this Fall collection, including a raccoon-hooded parka and an enormous shearling coat. The brand's big splash came from its stretchy, paneled Biker jeans, which are here again, but so is a simpler, straight-leg model of Japanese extraction. Styled in piled-on layers, Decarnin's look can be very aggressive. But piece by piece, its simplicity is its strength.


Photos from Style.com

(the text's are from GQ.com)

27 janeiro, 2011

Paris | Men's Fashion Week »Part I«

Last week, Paris gave us more Menswear collections for the 2011/2012 Winter.

In this post I show you some of my favourite collections.
Including the "a-little-bit-colorfull" Hermés, the "i-want-that-bag" Dior Homme, the "very-very-nice-coats" Pauls Smith and the "perfect-fit-coats-with-fur" Dries Van Noten.

The Menswear collectins are better then never, and menswear continues the fight to be more relevant and interesting for the fashion world, and to the rest of the world too! I'm with them!! :)

»PartII« is coming..


Hermés
A bold feel for Hermès, probably the youngest-looking collection in years, in terms of cut and style and fit. Suits—made less for the office and more for the family-board of directors meeting, or a night at the underground casino in Abu Dhabi—are trim and cropped and not as loose as previous seasons; colors are energetic and yet classic in their details: double vents; double-breasted; strong shoulders. (And if you need a shearling-lined leather jumpsuit, they gots that too!)


Dior Homme

An exercise in stripped-downedness. There's an ascetic Asian feel, but also an Amish-gets-rich note to it all. If someone ever did a badass re-make of "Witness" it'd be cool to have Harrison Ford rock this.


Paul Smith
The rugged bohemian. Chambray shirts and camel toggle coats that have a loose and nonchalant California feel. But this is Paul Smith and there's always going to be a nod to his Swinging London roots: like the over-sized furry coats and slim trousers that would look right on a Stones '67 tour.


Dries Van Noten

The son of a menswear shop owner and grandson of a tailor, Van Noten founded his own line in 1986. While still best known for his womenswear, Van Noten has gained increasing notice over the past decade for his men's collections, in particular his architectural take on suiting.
About this collection? Continental and cerebral, but rarely minimal



Photos from Style.com

(the text's are from GQ.com)

23 janeiro, 2011

LINDOO*



Prada | SS2011 Video Campaign

Featuring Arizona Muse, Kinga Rajzak, Zuzanna Bijoch, Mariacarla Boscono and Tati Cotliar



*Awesome