Paris Fashion Week | SpringSummer'13 ... Stella McCartney, Givenchy and Haider Ackerman

I have to tell you, some of my favourite shows from Paris are in this post.

Stella McCartney is always fun, new and young to a real contemporary woman. The Givenchy girl always accept changes and become more fierce yet mature. Haider Ackerman, shows the most poetical women, always elegant and relaxed, being beautiful and perfect like she always was... Tilda Swinton is a good prove.

I hope you enjoy those shows as much as I did.

SpringSummer'13 is gettin' stronger than ever!

Stella McCartney

Everytime I see a Stella McCartney show I start to love it, more and more. I'm always expecting what she have to show us, always alongside technical fabrics and never using fur or leather. This time the show started with Joan Smalls all in white, with transparencies and details at the fabric, some pleated, that were really amazing. The textures, the silhouette and the colors were sublime. White, orange, blue, old green and black... I didn't love very much the bags, but I did love the clutches, and sandals. They were so beautiful, even the flat ones! Some of my favorite looks were also the ones at the end, that Stella always do... Simple dresses, with amazing construction. This time they all had some fabric stripes cut, making shapes and having fun with the multicolored fabric of last look! What's not to love?

Givenchy

Riccardo Tisci is always innovative and surprisingly. This time we do not have any print, even if it be rottweilers or flowers. This time it's all about simplicity. I had notice this season that the designers had become more simple, more innovative and had created a new clean style to this generation... Finaly we have our own 'statement' look to this century. And Tisci just did it so well with this collection. Aguen we see a duel between opaque and transparent, solid and flued. The clothes seemed to be stucked by mettalic 'pins' to don't fall or to be stuck to the woman. I loved the detail. The collection is all around black and white, soft blue and nude. I love this colors because they put the powerful, but stronger looks become more sweet and fragile with those. With transparencies, lace were also used to impress some lightness to looks, and Maria Borges (Portuguese model) walked from the first time this runway, after her debut at the Couture season for Givenchy. Congrats!

Haider Ackerman

Ackerman is always misteious. His women is always beutifully elegant, with strong shapes, fluid fabrics and solid belts. This time we had bigger graphics and mixed prints, in geometric shapes, introduced to flued long dresses, falling from the chest and fragile women bodys embraced by structured pants and jackets. When you look it always seems so comfrotable, so light and soft. Even the strongest pieces. Ackerman's color sense is always flawless, and this time he played more with black, white and navy with tcwists of brown. Its a surprise when you note 'polka-dot dresses' or vertical stripes combined to other geometric shapes in such a fluid show. But the most poetic look was the last one, a crisp white backless top tucked into high-waisted horizontally striped pants. Most of editors loved it and it's really beautiful, clean and elegant.

Paris Fashion Week | SpringSummer'13 ... Chloé, Céline and Lanvin

Paris continues to show us the golden list of best shows, and here are three more to count...

From the sweet lady Chloé., to the trashy cofident Céline and the powerful contemporary Lanvin. 

All of them are strong womens, walking the runway to show us some beautys...

Do you have favourites, so far? 

Chloé

Chloé since Clare Waight Keller is taking the lead, it's like a sweet dream... Beautiful pieces, soft colors, expert cuts and amazing accessories. Wich means: Great collections! 

I can tell a story of a very feminine women, very confident, with a soft smile. She is practical, cute and calm, and with such softness she's the looking center of every ladys at the office... "Did you see that bag? I love the color"!

She's the dream of many womens, beautifully elegant however, simply practical. That's the Chloé girl!

In this collection I  loved the soft and light materials, the contradition of transparencies in light fabrics with opaque colors in solid materials. The metallic shoes were 'terrific' and the bordeux handbag with 'pony-hair', is just another 'it-bag'!

Céline

The Céline girl is always dangerous. I imagine her rober a bank, right at the financial district, NY, and getting out of the building very confident and badass, in such a 'killer style' with furry-sandals, and her leather pouch full of million dolar diamonds. 

Oh, I'm seeing her walking down the street, kissing her hottest-boyfriend and living in a penthouse at the soho, full of art pieces!

Now talking about the show, I loved those long dresses with a strong cleavage, and the easyness of style that represents it. Just like the rest of the collection, it's all about a sexy oversized silhouette, comfortable shoes and easy bags! I loved the shades of soft pink and blue and the attractive furry yellow pumps. The simple clutch in leather reminds me of Jil Sander's paper bag, and it's beautiful!

Thank you Phoebe Philo for such a strong collection... We love the Céline women, always so challenging...

Lanvin

Alber Elbaz is the genious of  Lanvin. This time he elevates the fashion issue and show us much clean silhouettes, strong womens in clever styles. It's "a new start", said Elbaz. 

I can see a contemporary way to look at classicism. The tuxedo meet kimono at the belts is a sign. The art presented at the location and at the Greco-Roman statue prints at dresses is a way. But I always love the assimetries of Lanvin, the giant bows, smashy dresses and elegant accessories. The black swimsuit look with black trousers were the sexiest look of the show... Kasia Struss knows how to work it!

The clean and linear dresses at the end seemed to be origami inspired... And I start to think: Why women have to complicate? A simple look, at the end, just shows the brighter women...

"Every women wants to look and be like a star." -Alber Elbaz

Paris Fashion Week | SpringSummer'13 ... Balenciaga, Dior and Balmain

Paris FashionWeek it's always the most exciting FashionWeek... 

It's always new, glamourous and fresh with all the long list of Designers that we love... From A(llaia) to Z(egna) it's a all new Alphabet!

It's Fashion... so, look it up at the dictionary! ;)

Balenciaga

Nicholas Ghesquiére for Balenciaga is always surprisingly futuristic, with all the origins and inspirations of the  past centurys of the Maison. Starting with the opening look (which always defines a collection), the top white cross bra with simple black pants were stunning. And I can't even talk about the several looks with giant ruffles, applied in dresses and assimetric skirts. If you look deep, you can see the texture in lace and knits that were applied in details at shirts, shorts and dresses in a certain unic way... 

...just like Balenciaga seems to be. 

This collection is a real 'new loook' that Ghesquiére gave us. Designers have to transform 'their' labels season-after-season, and Ghesquiére, like several good designers can do it soo much better... And that's the reason, why we love it!

Christian Dior

Maybe this was one (or THE) show that we most expected from Paris.

'Christian Dior by Raf Simons' It sounds promissing, and it really was! 

I confess that when I first saw the collection, I was a bit disapointed, maybe because I was expecting too much... (or I don't even know what I was expecting, too!) But, when, I whatched again this collection I found it so beautifull, refreshing and 'new'. It all started with a black tuxedo (the scarf at the neck was clever!) then I started to saw the silhouette changing and I was enjoying it so much! 

The color was added in stripes and organza dresses. First I didn't like it, but now I can not wait to see it in editorials and magazine covers! Other thing that made believe in this collection were the accessories. Dior have new it-bags on the block, and the 'Lady Dior' bag, just had a fresh air and became more clean and minimalist... The shoes where great, some of them with metallic stripes and some were just simply-beautyful-stilettos!! I have to love it!

Congrats Mr. Simons! 

Balmain

For SpringSummer'13 Balmain starts to introduce new 'big-shoulders', I mean, really big shoulders! And then we start to visit the DNA pieces of this Maison. I always love the short dresses, they are my favourite pieces, with great colors, and amazing workmanship. 

They have flawless embroydery and craftmanship, that we can't even understand how it was made! And this just blow me away! Over and over againd... It's so beautifull. The all spirit of the Balmain women is always so strong with powerful jackets in such a sexy silhouette!

I know that many people are right, when they say that Balmain is becoming season-after-season, always the same 'stuff'... 

Please, don't get me wrong! In my opinion (and I love Balmain) when Olivier Rousteing came to the Maison, it was fresh air, and I admit that it sarts to look always the same. But, I don't want to see it that way! 

This is the DNA of the label, it's what made them sell, and it is always great pieces! 

I still love Balmain and I'll always do...

Milan Fashion Week | SpringSummer'13 ... Fendi, Gucci and Roberto Cavalli

We are stiil in Milan, and here are more of the best shows, this season!

If you like graphics,and stylish things, go Fendi. 

If you love strong, colourful dresses, day or evening, Gucci is the way. 

But if you are relaxed, sexy and bohemian, all at the same time... I think you're a Cavalli girl.

Many choices, and sense-of-style's to every women. That's Fashion Week. No matter if you are big or small, black or white... 

If you have style, you still in Fashion, baby! ;)

Fendi

I must say that I love Karl Lagerfeld's work at Fendi.It's always very graphic and luxurious, but with a fun twist. It's always innovative in cutting-leather, silhouettes, and accessories. like the very popular sunglasses, the bags  and shoes, of course! This time I loved the colours, all that magnificent blocks of sweet colour cut by hand making beautiful and elegant pieces. 

The shoes were absolutely gourgeous, and the way that they introduced the famous Fendi 'baguette' along side with a bigger bag, was impresive! The final dresses with fireworks effects were beautiful, and the final all-sequins dress, and 'baguette', walked by Joan Smalls, were really the masterpiece of this collection!

Gucci

Gucci is here to set trends. The block colors in total look are here to stay! This was such an impressive and powerful show. The long dresses with so much big ruffles, and strong colors, always attached to the neck, making it more elegant. The colar details were amazing, it seems like couture, and it gives so much oppulence to the dress! After the colour, I also loved the black and white set of dresses. So elegant, pure and modern... The 'twiggy' make-up make it better, strong eyes is always a match point. 

And Anja Rubik walking that long white dress with that cleavage, amazing sleeves and those eyes... Oh Lord... I can't even look!!!

Roberto Cavalli

Last Season Roberto Cavalli was impressive. And this season he's still here to killed it! This casual but always bohemian girl is here to show us what it feels like to have real sexyness in lifestyle. Amazing pure white looks with so much hand-crafted work, make those pieces be really special and so good in details. All the dresses had some touch of lace, always so sexy and pure, making the women more wanted and fatale. Did you see those trousers with striped leather? God, that is massive! 

I also loved all the black section at the end of the show. So much lace, cuts on the body, beautiful jackets and strong womens... 

Did you ever think that Cavalli was goin' wrong? Now he's in a good way, again. And this is a trully message of bohemian-sexyness!

Milan Fashion Week | SpringSummer'13 ... Dolce&Gabbana, Pucci and Jil Sander

Here's Milan with pure sense of style and ambition to set trends and make history.

On this post I show you, just some of the best shows that happened during this week in Italy.

So much things catch my eye and made me see that Fashion is many times unpredictable, and have always something new to say and new points of view to show.

And that is what I love about it!

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana this time talks about a tourist in Sicily wearing the tradicional scenes and medieval history of that location. 

For me it was an amazing show, with all the DNA of the brand, a bit predictable, but always with a twist in details and concept. 

My favourite pieces were the transparencies and all the artwork and tradicional craftmanship applied on a corset, like Sicilian baskets, making a magnific piece of art. Also the rafia sacks transformed in dress were a brilliant idea, so tradicional and so connected to the brand. This ideas are really eye catching and the soul of a collection, but as all we know this is Dolce&Gabbana's comfort zone, and we will love to see what they have outside of the box!

Emilio Pucci

Peter Dundas started to took inspiration in Oriental countries, but was in Vietnam that he stops the road. 

Pucci with Dundas are really going out of it's way! The soul is there, the prints are there and the sexy Pucci Women is still alive, but is gettin' better than ever! This magnificent collection with many rich details is just beautiful. 

Starting with transparencies, amazing high-sculptured-dragon-heels and hand-painted dresses made this a trully statement. The robe-jackets with a twisted camo-print were beautiful. Also, lions and dragons were part of Pucci logo's in "couture- 'gangsta'" jackets... 

So much details defines a really strong collection. 

Strong. Powerful. Seductive. Warrior. 

Maybe those four words are the only ones in Pucci Women's dictionary, this season!

Jil Sander

Hello Jil Sander. First of all: Welcome back!

I really don't know how Jil Sander's style were before Raf Simons, but what I heard is that this collection was really inspired in Raf. 

Is that right?

Well, we know that this is pure minimalism. Maybe Jil started to show us the minimum to be allowed in the future to show us her vision of the future of Jil Sander's house. I liked very much the details and silhouettes of this season. The pure white is always present, the colour is not out of blue, red-whine or camel. 

I think that a really strong element of this collection were those boots with diagonal zipper. So elegant, so 'new' and so unexpected. 

That is true fashion. I must say that it was the point that made me believe in this collection!

Prada | SpringSummer'2013

And some how, Miuccia Prada fell asleep...

And she starts dreaming in black and white, in a distant place, far, far away...

It all happens in Asia (that land where clothes are caled 'Kimono' and a women are called 'Geisha') with red and pink sparkles from the flowers on the camp... Pretty collors in such a dark scene! 

And some how, she mixes everything! The flowers with the darkness, the light with clothes, and clothes with kimono's... 
The feets are on the ground., and some how they are in the air! 

And such a dark feeling became a sweet thing...

A collection was created.

She wakes up! It's Thursday, 20 September and she can't do anything. The collection came from this big dream and reallity happens!
It's Milan Fashion Week'!

This is a really strong collection with such a sweet feeling impressed by flowers and pink clothes. It started in a dark mood with flowers in black and white, and going across the dark green you start notice the red and the light from white and clear greens and pink at the end of the show!
The clothes were really unexpected, the theme and the colors, also.

So, tell me: Where you can see black and white fur jackets on a Spring show?
It's crazy, right?. But it's Prada. So, it's A-MA-ZING!!

The japanese mood across this collection is noticed by cuts and silhuettes inspired in kimono's, and also in the shoes so much appropied to those Harajuku girls... Even the shoes that seemed to be judo socks, were in leather and with bows! Miuccia  says that  she likes "walking on a flat - even if it's high"!

This collection was described as Nostalgic! But we can call it Poetry... Fashion Poetry! Is that right?



You can see the complete collection and video of the Show at Prada.com

New York Fashion Week | SpringSummer'2013

As usual, and always, New York Fashion Week starts playing the Spring Summer' 2013 trends for the entire Fashion month.

Now, that's ended, we actually can notice some silhuettes and colors that will reach our wardrobe next Summer.

Here, you have some of the best collections that were seen by the Fashion Industry.

Altuzarra

Joseph Altuzarra just did it again, surprisingly he stroke the point by made the most unexpected fabric (that is usually made to work), just become a trend in an usual and chic workwear for women. Applied in capes, coats and jackets, also shirts, pants and dresses. 

Mixed with some printed satin and luxury textiles. Creating and inspiring people with some "arabian" inspired looks with grateful embroidery and craftmanship. 

This "young" designer is becoming a legend and we can see it. For some seasons ago he's gettin' higher, and we just love it!

Marc Jacobs

I confess that I was a bit afraid of this Marc Jacobs show, the cause was the impression that the last show had to me (That just was, not right!). But, as always, we never know what to expect from Marc. And at this time, I just loved it.

Starting the show with a simple white t-shirt with black stripes was just GREAT! The rest of the show, also was so graphic but feminine, so wild but so right. The "very-short-dresses" or the "little-bit-long-tshirts" are amazing and very feminine. I just love Cara Delevigne with the brown-shirt! 

I loved the animal theme represented there and the long striped dresses creating ilusions as pants or body-shapes. Also the shoes were great and our idea of how Marc is BIG, just become BIGGER!


Jason Wu

Jason Wu as we know, is always sweet, delicious and "Oh-so-feminine". But this time he turn the road by making clothes also a bitter sweet and delicious, but in a "Oh-so-fatale" Femme! The body suits, the see-through shirts, blazers and dresses were just sexyer than ever. The underwear apllied on dresses, the well structured pieces and the "classy" that is always a theme with Wu. 

I loved the accessories, the collection and I also can see him growing by made just great and powerful clothes, like this, for real women.

Proenza Schouler

The guys at Proenza Schouler are always introducing new fabrics, textiles and ways of craftmanship to turn they're clothes in something really unique, effortless and very special. The brand is becoming higher that ever, with it's first store on Madison Avenue, and the work of Jack and Lazaro just become more structured and consistent with a guide line through the brand and it's identity.
This show was an absolutely proof of it. The patchwork painted leather jackets and the image-printed-satin dresses were a really strong point on this show. Also perforated leather in dresses and colorful points applied in real images printed in satin, were just big ideas that made this team just WORK. It works! It REALLY works! And we enjoy it more and more, each time... Please guys, keep working 'this' well!


Rodarte

The Mulleavy sisters from Rodarte created a very strong and warrior women for next Spring! Combining textured fabrics and warrior silhuettes with soft and light dresses floating in warrior-womens like Karlie Kloss.
This was medieval inspired with metal belts, and leather fringing, but the silhouettes sometimes reminded me of Proenza Schoular's Fall'12 or Balenciaga. Also, one of the high-lights of the show were the shoes! Really strong shapes, with great colors making the silhuettes even better! We just hope that Rodarte stroke some points again and continue to create such a "Pure Fashion Fantasy".



Also, you can see HERE the links for other great shows! Like Victoria Beckam | Narciso Rodriguez | Belstaff | Donna Karan | Marc by Marc Jacobs | Michael Kors and Theyskens' Theory...


See you in London! ;)

Alexander Wang | SpringSummer'2013

ATENÇÂO, antes de começares a ler, por favor, clica no PLAY.

Foi com este remix de A$AP Rocky que começou o desfile de Alexander Wang na temporada SpringSummer'2013 da New York Fashion Week.
Começou com looks em preto total, começando a introduzir prata e acabando o desfile com looks totalmente brancos... Todos os looks foram sempre acompanhados por fantásticas botas altas com riscas de pele pretas cheias de atitude e garra, juntamente com sandálias que criam a ilusão de bota (genious!).
Uma das coisas que mais me captou a atenção nesta colecção foram os motivos geométricos dos recortes translucidos nas peças, seja em riscas, ondulações ou texturas animais, que fez tudo isso fazer sentido num todo e foi realmente esse o conceito que deu personalidade à colecção.

O Look 34 usado pela Erin Wasson é para mim a melhor peça da colecção. Um vestido preto, simples, sexy com recortes transparentes delineando o corpo e a silhueta, criando uma ilusão puramente perfeita. (Já disse que era sexy?!)

Basicamente esse e os outros vestidos simples de linhas direitas e delineadas fazem qualquer pessoa acreditar nesta colecção e querer adquirir tais peças. Quero mesmo ver muitas delas utilizadas em looks de streetstyle... sejam as botas, as saias, camisolas ou até os vestidos que dariam perfeitamente para a Karlie Kloss ou a Joan Smalls usar na próxima gala do MET (Right?)

É realmente impressionante como é que facilmente temos uma colecção extremamente sexy, muito desportiva, cheia de linhas invisíveis que moldam uma desconstrução que apela os olhos ao corpo e à sua forma. É incrível e "mágico" como uma t-shirt pode ter riscas transparentes, como um vestido pode ter um padrão 'zebra' totalmente translucido e como uma it-girl pode vestir um look mostrando o umbigo e nós não nos importarmos minimamente com isso!

É mesmo incrível um designer querer deixar uma imagem de marca, e fazer isso apagando as luzes no desfile fazendo o público perceber que muitas das roupas que já tinham visto, afinal... também brilham no escuro!

É incrível podermos perceber que afinal ainda há esperança em novos talentos. A NY Fashion Week está cheia deles e o resto do mundo a borbulhar continua. Alexander Wang já se provou a si mesmo e a nós todos... Resta-nos mesmo esperar pelo próximo Verão e cruzar os dedos para podermos ter o prazer de nos cruzar com uma qualquer beleza criada por estas mãos.

[Yap, devias continuar a ouvir a música...!!!]  ;)

quando as luzes se apagam...

Podes ver o video da colecção AQUI

[Full track list: Put Cha Back In It - DJ Slink | Yaow - Baauer | Bonkers - Jay Fay & Ra Cailum | Harlem Shake - Baauer | Epic - Sandro Silva & Quintino]

VIDEO | Fashion's Night Out_Lisboa 2012

This is my Fashion's Night Out' 2012 in VIDEO!

It was an experience and it's the first video that I edit...
I hope you like it'