Paris Fashion Week | SpringSummer'13 ... Stella McCartney, Givenchy and Haider Ackerman

I have to tell you, some of my favourite shows from Paris are in this post.

Stella McCartney is always fun, new and young to a real contemporary woman. The Givenchy girl always accept changes and become more fierce yet mature. Haider Ackerman, shows the most poetical women, always elegant and relaxed, being beautiful and perfect like she always was... Tilda Swinton is a good prove.

I hope you enjoy those shows as much as I did.

SpringSummer'13 is gettin' stronger than ever!

Stella McCartney

Everytime I see a Stella McCartney show I start to love it, more and more. I'm always expecting what she have to show us, always alongside technical fabrics and never using fur or leather. This time the show started with Joan Smalls all in white, with transparencies and details at the fabric, some pleated, that were really amazing. The textures, the silhouette and the colors were sublime. White, orange, blue, old green and black... I didn't love very much the bags, but I did love the clutches, and sandals. They were so beautiful, even the flat ones! Some of my favorite looks were also the ones at the end, that Stella always do... Simple dresses, with amazing construction. This time they all had some fabric stripes cut, making shapes and having fun with the multicolored fabric of last look! What's not to love?

Givenchy

Riccardo Tisci is always innovative and surprisingly. This time we do not have any print, even if it be rottweilers or flowers. This time it's all about simplicity. I had notice this season that the designers had become more simple, more innovative and had created a new clean style to this generation... Finaly we have our own 'statement' look to this century. And Tisci just did it so well with this collection. Aguen we see a duel between opaque and transparent, solid and flued. The clothes seemed to be stucked by mettalic 'pins' to don't fall or to be stuck to the woman. I loved the detail. The collection is all around black and white, soft blue and nude. I love this colors because they put the powerful, but stronger looks become more sweet and fragile with those. With transparencies, lace were also used to impress some lightness to looks, and Maria Borges (Portuguese model) walked from the first time this runway, after her debut at the Couture season for Givenchy. Congrats!

Haider Ackerman

Ackerman is always misteious. His women is always beutifully elegant, with strong shapes, fluid fabrics and solid belts. This time we had bigger graphics and mixed prints, in geometric shapes, introduced to flued long dresses, falling from the chest and fragile women bodys embraced by structured pants and jackets. When you look it always seems so comfrotable, so light and soft. Even the strongest pieces. Ackerman's color sense is always flawless, and this time he played more with black, white and navy with tcwists of brown. Its a surprise when you note 'polka-dot dresses' or vertical stripes combined to other geometric shapes in such a fluid show. But the most poetic look was the last one, a crisp white backless top tucked into high-waisted horizontally striped pants. Most of editors loved it and it's really beautiful, clean and elegant.

Chanel 'The Little Black Jacket'

(Natalia Vodianova, Haider Ackerman, Clemence Poesy)

Karl Lagerfeld por meio da Chanel, deu um novo rumo ao já eterno casaco de tweed preto.

Muito conhecido, como um dos icones da 'maison' francesa, vestiu mulheres, homens e crianças, moldou personalidades e eternizou o classicismo. 

Juntou nomes que pertencem a uma agenda de contactos invejada por todos... Nesta lista incluem-se lendas dos nossos tempos, como Anna Wintour, Carine Roitfeld, Jane Birkin, Daphne Guinness, Inês De La Fressage, Claudia Shiffer e Tilda Swinton. 

Mulheres maduras e donas de si mesmo como Charlotte Casiraghi, Clemence Poesy, Kirsten Dunst, Natalia Vodianova, Sara Jessica Parker e Sofia Coppola. 

Sem esquecer os homens, com apelidos sonantes por si mesmos... Falamos de Wang, Tisci, Giambiconi, West, Restoin Roitfeld ou Ackerman!!

O icone está com todos, entre todos e dentro de todos! Somos o icone, e o icone somos nós!

Se somos o 'Little Black Jacket', então quer dizer que somos Chanel... Certo?

 (Joan Smalls, Carine Roitfeld, Akuol De Mabior, Charlotte Casiraghi)

 (Elisa Sednaoui, Frankie Rayder, Milla Jovovich, Tilda Swinton)

(Vanessa Paradis, Anna Wintour, Claudia Shiffer, Georgia May Jagger)

Mais fotos em RFSP BLOG | Facebook

Site oficial 'The Little Black Jacket'

Haider Ackermann

At first I didn’t like the spring/summer 2011 collection (at all), but then his fashion show for the next winter started a riot in my mind and more. As I said before, Ackermann is in my opinion one of the promissory geniuses in the world of fashion.

Comecei por não gostar (de todo) da colecção para o verão 2011, mas o seu desfile para o próximo inverno gerou uma revolução na minha cabeça e não só. Como já tinha dito anteriormente, Ackermann para mim é um dos génios promissores no mundo da moda.

In this show Ackermann based himself in contrasts, being mysterious but at the same time elegant. He created a silhouette full of contradictions almost impossible to describe.

Beautiful and elegant. Confuse, yet clean. I particularly enjoyed watching the show in video. It was presented in a poetic and moving atmosphere which shows us in the best way possible, the perfect cut, sumptuous and sophisticated created by Ackermann. The models walked slowly, so that everyone could observe the details, impossible to regard in a fast and loud presentation, it resulted in a calm and cohesive. Which I think it’s a great idea to be adopted by other creators (unless that’s the wanted result).

Neste desfile Ackermann baseou-se em contrastes, sendo misterioso mas ao mesmo tempo elegante. Criou uma silhueta cheia de contradições quase impossível de descrever.

Linda e elegante. Confusa, mas limpa. Gostei principalmente de ver o desfile em video. Foi realizado num ambiente poético e comovente, que mostra da melhor maneira o corte perfeito, majestoso e sofisticado criado por Ackermann. As modelos em passo lento de maneira a ser possível visualizar detalhes, impossíveis de ser vistos num desfile barulhento e apressado, tornou tudo mais calmo e coeso. O que acho uma excelente ideia a ser aplicada por outros criadores (a não ser que não seja o pretendido!).

As I researched a little more on Ackermann, I found that he had done a male collection, for the first time, for this summer!

In the male fashion show for the 2011 summer, the so referred silhouette, also applied in the following female collections, seems to be inspired in samurais somewhere lost in a North African desert! A stylish and cohesive nomad.

Ao pesquisar um pouco mais sobre Ackermann, descobri que fez uma colecção masculina pela primeira vez para este Verão!

No desfile masculino para o Verão 2011 a tão referida silhueta, também aplicada nas colecções femininas seguintes, parece inspirada em samurais algures perdidos num deserto no norte de África! Um nómada estiloso e coerente.

I think it results beautifully and even though it’s not my style of clothing, i find some of the pieces incredible. The ideal would be to create an editorial with these clothes! Possibly in a North African desert, with magic lamps and flying carpets …Like a 21st century Aladin. (I’m kind of fitting in the developments of Artur characters’! Sounds good…)

Some of the items of this collection are for sale in the web site LuisaViaRoma. You may also find the female collection (Summer 2011) for sale right here.

Acho que resulta muito bem e para além de pessoalmente não ser bem o meu estilo de roupa, acho algumas peças incríveis. O ideal era mesmo realizar um editorial com estas roupas! Num deserto no norte de África, com lamparinas mágicas e tapetes voadores... Provavelmente sendo o Aladino do séc. XXI. (estou-me a introduzir no desenvolvimento de personagens do Artur! sounds good...)

Algumas peças desta colecção estão a venda no site LuisaViaRoma. Também podem encontrar a colecção feminina (Verão 2011) a venda aqui.

Photos by Style.com

Paris Fashion Week | Fall Winter 2011 »Part II«

This is the last post about the international Fashion Weeks, for the Fall 2011/2012.

Hope you like my opinion about these shows...

Enjoy it!

P.S. I’ll soon post my coverage of ModaLisboa and Portugal Fashion (and I have so much to tell you!).For the past three weeks my time was zero, but now I’ll try to show you, how it was my experience in the two most important events of fashion in Portugal.

Haider Ackerman, in my opinion it’s the new 'big name' of the Fashion Industry (even Karl Lagerfeld, said it!). He came up with a new

silhouette with a very interesting design. Introduced colors like dark greens and petrol blue (wich I love!). My favorite look of this collection

is shown above in the middle. I love it! And don't forget, put Ackerman on the top of the it-list! He's the new 'big name'!!

Hermés, is no longer in the hands of Gaultier... now Christophe Lemaire is taking the lead, and he's here to succeed. His first collection

with a nomadic notion of travel, inspired on the orientalism, emerged with soft colors like white, browns, greys and little touches of the

classic orange of this 'maison'. A simple collection but a new discover to the world of Hermés, showed at the new Hermés flag.ship in Paris.

Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs are the perfect duo, and this collection proves it. Marc Jacobs is in arch provocateur mode, exploring and

exploding the meaning of fetishes. My favorite pieces of the collection were, the rubber dominatrix boots (instant hit), see-through flasher

macs, and let's not forget the lace-ups that exposed a bare expanse of Kate Moss' thighs below retro briefs.

Lanvin by Alber Elbaz is always a high moment of Fashion Week, the entire Fall collection was about the endless problems, of working with

one of fashion's most mystique-laden fabrics (Gazar), that Elbaz says is "So difficult" to work! But it seems so easy... sumptuous

silhouettes with perfect cuts are everywhere. Shiny colors like yellow, orange or fluo pink were worn at the end of the show, creating the

perfect scenery for the closer of this story! Love it, as always..

Jean Paul Gaultier, message for this show was: 'You're never too old for a little striptease.' Models and guests could prove this rule in

the Gaultier show, Models doing it and the guests enjoying the scene! Trench-coats in leather and wool, leather gloves and so many

special clothes ended up on the same place, the floor. But nobody got worried, because this is Fashion. This is Gaultier!

Valentino is taking the lead! In the hands of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, the romantic style and the nudes have become a

new signature of the house, just like the studs in the shoes and dresses. The silhouette is simple and clear, like a t-shirt, and this makes

sense to the women of today. This is for a woman who doesn't have a red carpet to walk every night of the week.

Stella McCartney, continues the trend introduced a month before at the Marc Jacobs show in New York. The polka-dots! This trend was

shown by Stella with a lot of transparencies, making the feminine silhouette more special and sensual. These sexy dresses will be definitely

a popular trend to follow next Fall. Also shiny clothes in gold and silver made this show evolve "to the next level", said Stella, with

aggressive, masculine silhouettes, in dresses, jumpsuits and coats.

Yves Saint Laurent in the headed by Stefano Pilati, continues with the rigor and the sensuality of, the masculine silhouette into the

women wardrobe. With the sense of strict elegance in black and white, visiting the 60's and the 70's at Saint Laurent. A simple, but

powerful architecture. That's it.

Here's a video from Style.com with the Highlights from this Paris Fashion Week...