Milan Fashion Week | SpringSummer'13 ... Dolce&Gabbana, Pucci and Jil Sander

Here's Milan with pure sense of style and ambition to set trends and make history.

On this post I show you, just some of the best shows that happened during this week in Italy.

So much things catch my eye and made me see that Fashion is many times unpredictable, and have always something new to say and new points of view to show.

And that is what I love about it!

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana this time talks about a tourist in Sicily wearing the tradicional scenes and medieval history of that location. 

For me it was an amazing show, with all the DNA of the brand, a bit predictable, but always with a twist in details and concept. 

My favourite pieces were the transparencies and all the artwork and tradicional craftmanship applied on a corset, like Sicilian baskets, making a magnific piece of art. Also the rafia sacks transformed in dress were a brilliant idea, so tradicional and so connected to the brand. This ideas are really eye catching and the soul of a collection, but as all we know this is Dolce&Gabbana's comfort zone, and we will love to see what they have outside of the box!

Emilio Pucci

Peter Dundas started to took inspiration in Oriental countries, but was in Vietnam that he stops the road. 

Pucci with Dundas are really going out of it's way! The soul is there, the prints are there and the sexy Pucci Women is still alive, but is gettin' better than ever! This magnificent collection with many rich details is just beautiful. 

Starting with transparencies, amazing high-sculptured-dragon-heels and hand-painted dresses made this a trully statement. The robe-jackets with a twisted camo-print were beautiful. Also, lions and dragons were part of Pucci logo's in "couture- 'gangsta'" jackets... 

So much details defines a really strong collection. 

Strong. Powerful. Seductive. Warrior. 

Maybe those four words are the only ones in Pucci Women's dictionary, this season!

Jil Sander

Hello Jil Sander. First of all: Welcome back!

I really don't know how Jil Sander's style were before Raf Simons, but what I heard is that this collection was really inspired in Raf. 

Is that right?

Well, we know that this is pure minimalism. Maybe Jil started to show us the minimum to be allowed in the future to show us her vision of the future of Jil Sander's house. I liked very much the details and silhouettes of this season. The pure white is always present, the colour is not out of blue, red-whine or camel. 

I think that a really strong element of this collection were those boots with diagonal zipper. So elegant, so 'new' and so unexpected. 

That is true fashion. I must say that it was the point that made me believe in this collection!

Milan Fashion Week SS2013 | Menswear

A época para o Verão de 2013 está aberta, e a roupa de homem, como já é habito, dá o pontapé de saída nas rondas das semanas da moda.
Milão vem antes de Paris e traz frescura, bons cortes, alfaiataria moderna, grandes casas, cores frescas e tendências fortes.

Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum foi um dos primeiros desfiles e apresentou para o contentamento de todos, cores vibrantes em peles metalizadas, utilizando trench-coats, camisas, acessórios e sandálias... Os bomber jackets também se sobressaíram, ficando logo presos a inúmeras wishlists sentadas em frente à passerele. Juntamente com prints geométricos e de cores neutras, aplicados em sedas, em casacos, gravatas e calças pulverizados de cores fortes e brilhantes, somaram os ingredientes certos para esta ser uma colecção reveladora e bastante agradável apresentada por Christopher Bailey.

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce&Gabbana trouxe um misto de emoções... A surpresa de trocar modelos por verdadeiros habitantes de Sicily (Italia), não sei se agradou ou não o publico, mas que o surpreendeu sem duvida alguma, surpreendeu! A colecção que misturava padrões de guerra italianos, com prints de riscas de vários tamanhos e cores, encaixavam-se em camisas, calções, t-shirts e calças de vários tamanhos e feitios. Os tamanhos inúmeras vezes não eram os certos, dando a ideia de as peças terem sido adquiridas do pai, ou do irmão mais velho! Uma herança vestida e apreciada por Domenico e Stefanno Gabbana. Pessoalmente gostei muito dos sapatos abertos, e de alguns prints em calções e t-shirts!

Gucci

Gucci, com o Verão de 2013 trouxe uma lufada de ar fresco, apontada por Frida Gianinni com cores claras e fortes, trazendo o arco-íris ao guarda roupa masculino, incorporado principalmente em fatos. Os prints coloridos e muito divertidos de seda em calças e casacos trouxeram grande animo a colecção e vida a peças de fundo branco já habituais no homem Gucci, mas aqui revisitados de uma forma espontânea e divertida! A minha peça favorita é o polo com o print azul, com as mangas em malha branca, lindo, lindo, e que eu usava até à exaustão!

Jil Sander

Jil Sander retornou à sua Jil Sander, mas permaneceram tantas influencias e feitios do, não esquecido, Raf Simons. Os cortes, as cores, os padrões abstractos e as sobreposições eram marcas bem grandes no trabalho de Raf, e aqui permaneceram sem me fazer impressão nenhuma. Noto uma colecção mais acessível, mas forte e coesa. Fiquei agradado e gostei bastante dos últimos looks, tanto os das bolinhas (todos adoráveis!), como os brancos, simples e lindos que fecharam o desfile.

Prada

Prada "Goes Minimal", e o publico quase nem teve tempo para digerir o tão pouco que estava a ver. Tudo muito parecido, quase igual, quase androgeno, numa filosofia minimalista e básica. Gostei mesmo muito das geometrias nos polos, camisas e casacos. As partes de cima são todas apetitosas e lindas, e as cores nada esperáveis são harmoniosas, bonitas e coesas. Já é de mim, mas não gostei das sandálias, nem dos blocos de cor aplicados nas calças... Miuccia Prada deixa-nos sempre algo para digerir lentamente e faz-nos sempre pensar no significado e sentido das coisas, mesmo não existindo um! Gostei muito do desfile e dos looks femininos que deram grande animo a colecção e completaram o sentido do minimal aplicado a todos.

  

Salvatore Ferragamo

Salvatore Ferragamo deu um grande giro, e tornou-se fresco, jovem, divertido e desinibido. Cores vibrantes, claras e animadas preencheram todas as roupas, conjugadas com branco em pinceladas animadas em pequenos detalhes na roupa ou em apontamentos nos acessórios. Eu, que não sou nada apreciador deste tipo de ténis desportivos, fiquei rendido a este modelos nestas cores, que usava sem pensar duas vezes! Divertidos, simples e práticos. Uma verdadeira surpresa!



Também em Milão, adorei o desfile de Valentino, super usável e muito masculino, com apontamentos de verde tropa e camuflados, misturado com amarelos, castanhos e clutchs maravilhosas quase em todos os looks! Vejam a colecção completa AQUI.

Milan Fashion Week | Fall Winter 2011 »Part II«

Milan continues with a lots of Collections...

Paris Fashion Week is on the way and soon my reviews will be posted here!!

This week will be crazy... with the end of Paris Fashion Week, and the start of Lisbon Fashion Week (ModaLisboa), the one i'll be presenting alive here on the RFSPblog! Wait to see it...!

So, I hope you like my choices!

Just tell me what's your favourite collections from Milan...

Jil Sander
Jil Sander, last season show us a new and revolutionary silhouette. Lots of color and magic bags! This season the silhouette stays but the colors have changed... A little bit more dark but amazingly combined. The flower patterns are beautifully well done and the bags are structured and a bit colored. I love the simple dresses, the grey and the yellow one's are just beautifull.

Moschino
This collection is funny and glamourous. The glasses, the earings and the suits... Everything is made to shine! But my favourite piece of the entire collection is the simple black dress (shown under at the right!) Simple but magnificent!!

Prada
This is pure sugar! This is one of the best collections for this season, Prada surprise us one more time. Every single look is gorgeous, the colors and the materials are just brilliant. I love the bags and the shoes... And my favourite looks are the first one in white (shown above at the left), and the more plastic (the second one, shown under at the right). This collection, certainly puts fashion in another level!

Versace
Strong colors, a strong silhouette, fur and leather... Everything is mixed to combine in one word: Versace. Just love the dresses (shown under) in black and white whith fur, prepared to look amazingly and show some great legs!! Love it!

Salvatore Ferragamo
Ferragamo is now in black/white! Glamourous looks for a strong woman with the right attitude. Dresses, suits, black leather trench coats and amazing shoes...! Each look show us a powerfull woman with a perfect grey suit, or just a simple sexy dress. I just love the look made of a shinny dress with a coat, used as a cape.

Emilio Pucci
Extremely hot, sexy and powerfull. Sexy womans in amazing dresses, saying pucci all over it! Just love Ana Selezneva, Alessandra Ambrosio, Izabel Goulart, Isabeli Fontana, Abbey Lee Kershaw, Natasha Poly and Anja Rubik in this looks!! The make-up and the hair-style are also amazing!
Just love the sex-appeal of this collection...!

Dolce & Gabbana
Music and stars are the inspirational effects that puts the Dolce&Gabbanna collection on the hit-list of Milan. Androgynous looks, making womans more masculines... But also sexy and feminine dresses. The 'Miss Sicily' bags are now more beautifull and shiny... Thats your opportunity to shine...

Roberto Cavalli
Cavalli is now more wild and beautifull. Strong looks, whith a lot of attitude, this womens are... fabulous! This is powerfull. I love the shoes, the dresses, the coats, scarfs and also bags! Be strong... be Cavalli!



(Photos by Vogue.com)

Milan | Men's Fashion Week »Part I«

From the past five days, Milan gave us his Men's Fashion Week for the Winter 2011/2012.
I didn't have time to post about every detail, as i would like, but now i show you my favourite collections from this Fashion Week.

This is »Part I«, because many shows thrilled my eyes!!! And all of them in just one post, will be just, boring!
Soo, i hope you like my choices...

Burberry Prorsum
Burberry's designer Christopher Bailey loves himself some coats. And this season there are ship loads of em across a range of iconic cuts and fabrics, from a lumberjack coat in buffalo plaid to a duffel in burnt orange to vinyl slickers in shades of toffee and caramel. It's a collection that's deep in the Burberry roots, especially the two-button suits in camel, black and dark moss, but Bailey also mixes things up and reaches into all the references a modern man knows, throwing in Kangol-esque fur caps any MC would dig as well as lug-soled creepers that a new wave '80s boy would rock.

D&G
Fifty-odd years of American pop culture gets put in the Italian mix master and spun on 'high'.We've got suits in late-'60s era bold plaids paired with preppy check shirts; T-shirts with big Coca-Cola logos and Mickey Mouse images paired with bright-colored high tops and baggy jeans. There's even a Joe Namath-worthy fur coat.

Gucci
A nod to Gucci's '70s heritage. Frida Gianni takes that era's colors (dusty rose, brown, camel) and puts them on today's sharply tailored slim suits, then pairs them with shirts and ties in subtle color combinations like teal, tan and brown. This is a quieter swagger for Gucci this season, but don't think it's not a Gucci swagger through and through—not when coats come complete with a curly lamb shearling and fur collars as well as ostrich.

Jil Sander
What happens when Teutonic minimalism gets a shot of pop? This. It's like an iconic Joseph Beuys cashmere suit got left in a grade-school art room and retrofitted with bright tempera paint-colors (hyper blue, fuschia and Cheetos orange, among others) to create bold accents. Jil being Jil, the suits and sweaters and shirts are still cut slim and form-fitting, just like the cropped, quilted overcoats that have the feel of '60s Gstaad ski patrol coats.

Photos from Style.com

(the text's are from GQ.com, i think they are pretty good, so, i decided to put them here!)

Jil Sander | SS2011 Womans Accessories

Jil Sander | SS2011 Womans Accessories

Colour is a key theme for Jil Sander's Spring Summer 2011.
Flower prints have recurred for both the mens and women's collections, so it is no surprise we see these gorgeous prints incorporated into the women's bags.
Unique shape, contemporary and classy, it's definitely an arm candy to get that attention and envy you seek.
Hobos, shopping totes, clutches and duffels, an extensive selection of styles to suit any modern women's needs.
Those with hues of fluorescent green, blue, pinks and yellows standout the most and make this new collection a visual treat for the eyes.



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Jil Sander | SS2011 Mens Accessories

Jil Sander | Spring Summer 2011 Mens Accessories

Jil Sander Spring Summer 2011 is one of the most vibrant collections ever for the brand. Not only it best exemplifies the colour blocking trends of Spring Summer 2011, the bright hues simply makes the clothes and accessories pop!

Get ready for a colourful summer!



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Jil Sander | SS2011 Fashion Show

Jil Sander | SS2011 Fashion Show
Milan Fashion Week

"Several of the editors felt that, so far, this was the best show of the entire season."
Scott Schuman


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