Paris Fashion Week FallWinter'13 | Menswear

The Menswear from Paris, is always pleasurable and desirable. We can start from Dries Van Noten, Vuitton or Lanvin, but the 'trashy-chic' is always present in Masculine pieces, and Paris is just the perfect example!

This season we have new trends, new must-have pieces and an elegance that we can never compare.

Here's my favourite shows from Paris...

Lanvin

Dries Van Noten

Dries is always impecable in easyness. But this time, we just went too far! In such a good way.

The pieces are easy to wear, very comfortable, including intense dark colors in amazing patterns that we can see in trousers, jackets or even shirts. This 'easy-chic' is so desirable and tempting in cold days, that we can always dress like this.

I just loved the simple looks with white shirt, a simple sweat or blazer, trending with patter trousers and comfy shoes. Are you in?

Dries Van Noten

Givenchy

So Riccardo Tisci just gave us a very dark lesson! And you should better learn.

He said that he wanted to do a much more couture collection for Menswear (because Givenchy's Couture line won't be presented) introducing something chic and elegant, with new cuts and luxury materials, like cashmere or velvet.

We can notice an involvence with America, in sportive american jackets and patterns, but what I liked the most were the involvence of zippers in such a good pieces like shirts, jackets and amazing coats. I really want them! So couture-ish and elegant.

Givenchy

Louis Vuitton

This was GREAT! I simply want e-ve-ry-thing.
The concept was amazing, the styling was amazing and pieces were amazing. Louis Vuitton's Mesnwear is really becoming an extraordinary influence and point of view as we never had seen before.
The luxury/sportive way that the pieces are created is really magnificent. And the mixing of both, in the way that they do it! Just Beautiful.
Can I start my order-list? Oh-Gosh!

Louis Vuitton

Hermés

Hermés is having a great evolution process in Menswear.
The last collection, was by far my favourite, with great colors and and amazing sportive cuts.
This season, the man is more serious and Parisian. I notice that in turtle-necks, navy coats, white trousers and leather jackets! We can see Hermés becoming more younger, but standing in the same luxury position as before! In this show we noticed the amazing whatches and accessories, so familiar and recognixable from the Maison.
My favourite look? Obviously the second one on the picture. Simple, elegant accomplished by the beautiful whatch !

Hermés

Valentino

This is by far, my favourite collection from this season!
It's sad that we don't have details in pictures, but we can sure notice the flawless looks, in great styling and attitude from the renovated House of Valentino Garavani!
Since last collection, Valentino just don't get out of my mind with THESE sneakers, but now we really step forward. The navy-blue is amazing. But the cuts and materials from each piece just blows me away!
I really want that cape with the large leather stripe! I really want that next coat, and the all look! And also the blue sweater with the clutch... yeah, I really want it badly!!

Valentino

Lanvin

The Men from Lanvin is always straight forward.
This time Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz wanted to talk about propotion!
Usually the mens body don't have this aproach, but now they wanted to do it right but commercial.
This refresh was about large coats, oversized pants and new silhouettes. Also introducing technical fabrics in shirts, as we had seen before, creating transparencies and a new way of light, not so common in menswear.
And I really loved that mirror-clutch. So fresh and elegant!
Lanvin is never common, and thats why they always do what they believe even if it's extravagant.

Lanvin

Paris Fashion Week SS2013 | Menswear

Depois de Milão, voamos para norte e Paris apresenta-nos as suas colecções. Inovadoras, tecnológicas, surpreendentes e bastante desportivas...

O Verão chegou, mas calma porque este é só para o ano!

Givenchy

Ricardo Tiscci volta a esmerar-se para a Givenchy. Com uma colecção com bastante carácter religioso, contraditório chegando a tentar fazer de Madonna uma virgem, santa. Modelos apressados desfilaram tons que sempre rodearam o preto/branco, com alguns prints, também looks totais em rosa pálido e outros com acentos de vermelho foram notados. A imagem de marca da colecção fica sem duvida a camisa com a cara estampada, completada com gravata e casaco iguais, dando um efeito utópico, genial e único à colecção. Os volumes e as sobreposições também foram bastante notados, chegando a parecer que os modelos vestiam túnicas por cima de calças e com fatos de corte irrepreensível. Uma colecção bastante dinâmica e maravilhosamente bem estruturada, que apenas vem realçar o trabalho de Tiscci na Gicenchy.

Hermés

Ainda não tenho as palavras certas para falar da colecção da Hermés. Não sei bem o que se passou, mas sei que Véronique Nichanian esmerou-se e muito bem! Numa colecção impecável, simples e muito prática. Fazendo as expressões luxo e exclusividade chegar a um novo patamar com roupa extremamente prática e vestivel da maneira mais descontraída e simples que poderíamos imaginar. Inovando em materiais luxuosos aplicando-os em peças triviais como pele de crocodilo numa t-shirt preta, ou em neoprene de caxemira num blazer simples e de bom corte. Notei também um calçado bastante pratico envolvendo ténis, sapatos e slippers também em materiais luxuosos e maravilhosos. Basicamente conseguia vestir tudo nesta colecção. Notoriamente sem evidenciar a marca, mas estando o mais confortável possível.

Lanvin

Lucas Ossendrijver e Alber Elbaz transformaram o homem Lanvin em algo definitivamente mais maduro e completo. Criaram contradições nos volumes, nos tecidos e nas cores. Usualmente com colecções bastante apelativas cromaticamente, esta colecção manteve-se mais neutra, mas falou mais alto. Volumes em casacos estruturados com misturas de tecidos completamente invulgares, passando de preto/branco para metalizados, num homem mais moldado e decidido com um 'know-how' de 'sense-of-style' bem apurado e completamente a vontade com a sua maneira de ser. Uma das caracteristicas que me marcou mais na colecção foi sem duvida a mistura de 'piton' com 'nylon' em camisas, parkas e casacos. Algo completamente inesperado, mas que resultou tão bem que bem se pode repetir mais vezes!

Louis Vuitton

Kim Jones sabe definitivamente o que faz na Louis Vuitton. E fá-lo tão bem que só apetece ver mais e mais. Neste moento a cada estação que passa o desfile masculino da Louis Vuitton torna-se cada vez mais esperado e ansiado, porque já sabemos que traz novidades, coisas novas e uma nova perspectiva. E isso voltou a acontecer esta estação. Numa onda mais desportiva, mas luxuosa repleta de tecidos tecnológicos e peças inesperadas para uma marca tão histórica, o que o torna mais apetecível e não tão linear como de costume. Dando ênfase a desportos marinhos envolvendo coletes salva vidas em pele, fatos de neoprene e caxemira com detalhes neon. Acessórios luxuosos, mas descontraídos também em tons neon, como os oculos ou malas, completam a colecção e prometem ser um hit em vendas ligados ao publico de street-style que rodeia todas as fashion weeks! Can't wait to see it.

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten 'always impecable' tornou a trazer-nos o que de melhor sabe fazer. Para mim, esta não foi uma das suas melhores colecções, mas definitivamente o padrão camuflado não faz desviar o olhar. Os blocos de cor inesperados foram um dos pontos fortes da colecção e mais uma vez os tecidos tecnológicos voltam a dar de si, desta vez literalmente camuflados. A mistura de cores, de padrões e de tecidos trouxe uma identidade forte, realçada por cortes descontraídos. As minhas peças favoritas são exactamente as compostas por blocos de cor, como a t-shirt branca com verde, ou as calças azuis com laranja. Também as parkas camufladas transparentes que ficam genialmente bem por cima de qualquer peça branca, marcam e muito esta colecção.

Deixo-vos com este video do Style.com que faz uma breve review desta temporada em Paris, realçando o que de melhor se fez e as colecções mais faladas, passando também por estas que mencionei... Realço a apresentação de Thom Browne, completamente inesperada e divertida que trouxe o 'preppy' americano para Paris, em forma de baleias e tecidos em xadrez bem apelativos ao publico Japonês. Contraditório? 
It's Paris Fashion Week, baby!

Paris Fashion Week | Fall Winter 2011 »Part I«

Sorry! I'm late!!

I know this fashion week has passed by... but now it's time to do a review and think about the trends for the next Fall!

This is the first part, and some of my favorite shows are here...!

Hope you like it...

Chanel, as always had a stunning show, this time Karl Lagerfeld decided to recreate a dark forest... The clothes were also dark but always glamorous. I love the men look with reinterpretation of the classic Chanel coat!Also the new lock of the classic bag, Chanel 2.55 is marvelous and i love it!

Besides of Karl Lagerfeld, in my opinion, one of the geniuses of this Fashion generation is Alexander McQueen. Now the brand in the hands of Sara Burton, is still growing and the collections are growing season to season. For the Fall 2011/2012 the collection is in black/white and grey, also with little details of orange. The theme of the collection "The Ice Queen and her court", makes sence when we look to each look and we can see white queens, covered in feathers, leather and zippers that makes the feminine silhouette just perfect.

Balenciaga, one of my favourite brands, now in the hands of Nicholas Ghesquiére came with a collection with a game of proportions, with a zooming in on textures. "Elegant and effortless, this was realism trumping surrealism" said Tim Blanks and he's right! Why does Balenciaga doesn't exist in Portugal? WHY?
The military style remains in the Balmain collection, and Christophe Decarnin continues leading his troupe. Sequins all over dresses and leather trousers in shiny colors. All of these things are well-done styling with simple sweaters in black, white or blue. The glam-rock is in the house, and Balmain still's rock'in. (Even if his creative director "is under doctor's orders to rest after being treated for an unconfirmed illness alternately rumored to be depression or exhaustion." said Tim Blanks from Style.com).

Céline, the brand of the moment in terms of it-bags, came with bits of color in yellow, marron or blue. This brand is nothing more than classic and its why everybody in fashion world loves Phoebe Philo. Céline is rehinvented with turtle-necks, statement coats and outstanding bags. The iPad case it's an absolutely must-have, and the doctor's bag have to be seen by every women eyes.

The most discussed Fashion Show of the season was Christian Dior, everything was around John Galliano being dismissed of the house of Dior. His final collection was one of the bests from him, in Dior. The sign of Dior was there, and the classic "New-look", was in coats and dresses. A very romantic collection, with a soft-pink scheme of colors. "Colors were rich, textures were lush, and there was a layered lounche-ness that amplified the bohemian theme."

Now the question that everyone is asking... "Who will take the place of John Galliano?" (Ricardo Tisci's and Carine Roitfeld?? I think so...!)

Chloé is also another brand that is growing. The camel of past collections give his place to colors of this season. The 70's have now snakeskin, and patterns. Patchwork of python printed in different colors, and different silhouettes stills classic and making sense with the label of Chloé.

Dries Van Noten, a very respectful designer continues his work, after an amazing Spring collection that everybody loved (i loved it too!). For this Fall, Van Noten was inspired by David Bowie and the Ballets Russes, and the similarities between this two worlds. Extravagant patterns in amazing coats and silk skirts, make this collection one of the bests from this Fashion Week.

Giambattista Valli is an amazing new name in this industry. I just love his work, and season to season the collections are even better! With splash of colors, or in black and white, the cut of the pieces are just delightful things for my eyes. This new silhouettes really inspires me and make me feel that FASHION IS ART.

Givenchy by Ricardo Tisci (so far! ahaha) is takin my breath away! Black Panters, transparency, flower patterns and an it-collor, "the yellow". Sweet and romantics black skirts over transparent ones, were definitly a wonderful idea. Givenchy is still a great label, and also has one of the best bags! I love very VERY much, some of them!! So congrats to Tisci's work and we hope that he still doing a great job!

(Photos by Vogue.com)

Paris | Men's Fashion Week »Part I«

Last week, Paris gave us more Menswear collections for the 2011/2012 Winter.

In this post I show you some of my favourite collections.
Including the "a-little-bit-colorfull" Hermés, the "i-want-that-bag" Dior Homme, the "very-very-nice-coats" Pauls Smith and the "perfect-fit-coats-with-fur" Dries Van Noten.

The Menswear collectins are better then never, and menswear continues the fight to be more relevant and interesting for the fashion world, and to the rest of the world too! I'm with them!! :)

»PartII« is coming..


Hermés
A bold feel for Hermès, probably the youngest-looking collection in years, in terms of cut and style and fit. Suits—made less for the office and more for the family-board of directors meeting, or a night at the underground casino in Abu Dhabi—are trim and cropped and not as loose as previous seasons; colors are energetic and yet classic in their details: double vents; double-breasted; strong shoulders. (And if you need a shearling-lined leather jumpsuit, they gots that too!)


Dior Homme
An exercise in stripped-downedness. There's an ascetic Asian feel, but also an Amish-gets-rich note to it all. If someone ever did a badass re-make of "Witness" it'd be cool to have Harrison Ford rock this.


Paul Smith
The rugged bohemian. Chambray shirts and camel toggle coats that have a loose and nonchalant California feel. But this is Paul Smith and there's always going to be a nod to his Swinging London roots: like the over-sized furry coats and slim trousers that would look right on a Stones '67 tour.


Dries Van Noten
The son of a menswear shop owner and grandson of a tailor, Van Noten founded his own line in 1986. While still best known for his womenswear, Van Noten has gained increasing notice over the past decade for his men's collections, in particular his architectural take on suiting.
About this collection? Continental and cerebral, but rarely minimal



Photos from Style.com

(the text's are from GQ.com)

Dries Van Noten | SS2011 Fashion Show

Dries Van Noten | SS2011 Fashion Show
Paris Fashion Week


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(clic on pic to enlarge for better view)