Dior Couture Dress

Since Haute Couture it's being in Paris, it's time for us to think about it.

Most of the time we see but we don't even think what os it's all about, and how did they did it.

This video, with just an example of one Dior's dress, really shows the hard work and the amazing craftsmanship of a 'simple' 'plissé' dress!

200 Hours Later...
This is a Dior Couture Dress.

Dior invites Students to 'Haute-Couture'

“You are invited to the Christian Dior Haute Couture Show in Paris, all expenses paid.”

One thing that cought me by surprise this passed Haute Couture Fashion Week...

The Dior team invited 63 fashion students from the 22 most prestigious Fashion Colleges around the world (from London to Antwerp to Florence, Tokyo, Bejing, Paris, New York and Shanghai) to attend the Haute-Couture Show and visit the ateliers in Paris.

This was such an empowerment to me, just because I wanted so baddly to be in their shoes, and have this opportunity of a lifetime just in front of me!

“It was like a magical mystery tour,” said Paglinco, one of the students. “Even when we arrived in Paris, we didn’t know what was going to happen. No idea we’d be taken to the ateliers at Dior to see everything being made the night before the show. No idea that we’d be given talks and shown all the jobs we didn’t know about. That made it even more fun.”

It’s not every day students get to see a fashion show, other than via the time-honored method of crawling through the back way. 

But Raf Simons decided to introduce a first. “I thought it would be a great idea to add another show especially 

for students and the atelier people.”

Yes, you read it right! This was the third Dior show of the day, just for the invited students, along with the employees from the Dior ateliers, to watch a show organized especially for them!

“I think as a student you shouldn’t think about the system, but just what you really, really believe in, and in the beginning reach out to other people who believe in it, rather than those who are in control.” said Raf

Paris Fashion Week | SpringSummer'13 ... Balenciaga, Dior and Balmain

Paris FashionWeek it's always the most exciting FashionWeek... 

It's always new, glamourous and fresh with all the long list of Designers that we love... From A(llaia) to Z(egna) it's a all new Alphabet!

It's Fashion... so, look it up at the dictionary! ;)

Balenciaga

Nicholas Ghesquiére for Balenciaga is always surprisingly futuristic, with all the origins and inspirations of the  past centurys of the Maison. Starting with the opening look (which always defines a collection), the top white cross bra with simple black pants were stunning. And I can't even talk about the several looks with giant ruffles, applied in dresses and assimetric skirts. If you look deep, you can see the texture in lace and knits that were applied in details at shirts, shorts and dresses in a certain unic way... 

...just like Balenciaga seems to be. 

This collection is a real 'new loook' that Ghesquiére gave us. Designers have to transform 'their' labels season-after-season, and Ghesquiére, like several good designers can do it soo much better... And that's the reason, why we love it!

Christian Dior

Maybe this was one (or THE) show that we most expected from Paris.

'Christian Dior by Raf Simons' It sounds promissing, and it really was! 

I confess that when I first saw the collection, I was a bit disapointed, maybe because I was expecting too much... (or I don't even know what I was expecting, too!) But, when, I whatched again this collection I found it so beautifull, refreshing and 'new'. It all started with a black tuxedo (the scarf at the neck was clever!) then I started to saw the silhouette changing and I was enjoying it so much! 

The color was added in stripes and organza dresses. First I didn't like it, but now I can not wait to see it in editorials and magazine covers! Other thing that made believe in this collection were the accessories. Dior have new it-bags on the block, and the 'Lady Dior' bag, just had a fresh air and became more clean and minimalist... The shoes where great, some of them with metallic stripes and some were just simply-beautyful-stilettos!! I have to love it!

Congrats Mr. Simons! 

Balmain

For SpringSummer'13 Balmain starts to introduce new 'big-shoulders', I mean, really big shoulders! And then we start to visit the DNA pieces of this Maison. I always love the short dresses, they are my favourite pieces, with great colors, and amazing workmanship. 

They have flawless embroydery and craftmanship, that we can't even understand how it was made! And this just blow me away! Over and over againd... It's so beautifull. The all spirit of the Balmain women is always so strong with powerful jackets in such a sexy silhouette!

I know that many people are right, when they say that Balmain is becoming season-after-season, always the same 'stuff'... 

Please, don't get me wrong! In my opinion (and I love Balmain) when Olivier Rousteing came to the Maison, it was fresh air, and I admit that it sarts to look always the same. But, I don't want to see it that way! 

This is the DNA of the label, it's what made them sell, and it is always great pieces! 

I still love Balmain and I'll always do...

My Favourites | SpringSummer'2013 Menswear by "Artur In The Woods"

This time on "My Favourites" I asked Artur Araújo from "Artur In The Woods" (http://arturinthewoods.blogspot.pt/) to talk about his love for Fashion and his favourites from SpringSummer'2013 Menswear collections.

Now you can understand his love for Raf Simons and all the bizarre and androginous looks!

Desta vez para o "My Favourites" convidei o Artur Araújo do "Artur In The Woods" para falar sobre o seu amor pela Moda e escolher os seus favoritos das colecções SpringSummer'2013 de Menswear.

Aqui, podem perceber o seu amor por Raf Simons e por todos os looks bizarros e androginos!

"Sometimes I be like this... Speechless about a collection. It's something that really happens when I really like what I saw. It's true. And that's what happened here. This feminine looks that Raf Simons shows for next SpringSummer'2013 season, made me fascinated. I'm always in the mood for a masculine collection with short shorts, so this runway show starts to win with just that. I loved the turtle-necks, accenting the feminine side of the collection, the colors (I'm a big fan oh this clear-pink), the sneakers, and the prints that comming from Brian Calvin work."


"Ás vezes, fico assim... Sem saber exactamente o que dizer acerca de uma colecção. É algo que geralmente acontece quando gosto muito (mesmo muito) do que vi. É verdade, e este é um desses casos. Estes looks efeminados que o Raf Simons nos sugere para a próxima temporada de Primavera/Verão 2013 deixaram-me fascinado. Eu estou sempre no mood para uma colecção masculina que tenha short shorts, portanto, este desfile começou a ganhar logo por aí. Adorei as golas altas, que acentuaram o aspecto feminino da colecção, as cores utilizadas (sou um grande fã daquele cor-de-rosa pálido), os ténis e, claro, os prints reminiscentes do trabalho do artista Brian Calvin."

"Incomun. Captivating. This is the type of look that evoque strong reactions in the people. Not the type of look we are used to see in a masculine collection, and that's the point of my admiration. The shorts are very short, which makes the long top longer, seemed to be a dress. The print, an illustration by Brian Calvin shows us a feminine face, beside the pink trench coat, makes this look more androginous and bizarre."

"Incomum. Cativante! Estamos perante um look que suscita fortes reacções nas pessoas. Não é o tipo de conjunto que estamos habituados a ver numa colecção masculina e isso contribui para a admiração que tenho por ele. Os calções são muito curtos, o que faz com que o top, que por si só já é comprido, se assemelhe a um vestido. O print, uma ilustração de Brian Calvin que nos mostra um rosto com características femininas, juntamente com aquele trench coat cor-de-rosa, tornam o look ainda mais andrógino e bizarro."

"Two thousand and twelve, absolutely were the year of Raf Simons. The famous belgian designer leaved Jil Sander in February, sayin goodbye with a brilliant collection with such an emotional show. In April, he was appointed to be Dior's Creative Director. His first collection to such an iconic french house was showed in July, an Haute-Couture show, with so many complimments from the most important critics in the Fashion industry, with the presence of the best designers seated at the front-row of the show. Howhever, if in the big european fashion houses that accepted him, exist creative limits, at his own brand, the designer doesn't seems to have a problem to take risks. Proof of it its this SpringSummer'2013 collection, that besides taken reactions of hate/love in the general public, it challenged the true followers of the brand."

"Dois mil e doze foi, sem dúvida, o ano de Raf Simons. O aclamado designer belga saiu da Jil Sander em Fevereiro, despedindo-se com uma brilhante colecção e com um desfile muito emocional. Em Abril, foi apontado como novo director criativo da Dior. A sua primeira colecção para a icónica casa francesa foi apresentada em Julho - um desfile haute couture que, para além de ter recebido elogios por parte dos mais importantes críticos de moda do mundo, contou com a presença de alguns dos melhores designers na primeira fila. Contudo, se nas grandes casas de moda europeias que o acolhem existem limitações para a criatividade, na sua marca homónima, o designer não parece ter qualquer problema em arriscar. Prova disso foi a colecção S/S 13, que para além de ter provocado reacções de amor/ódio no público em geral, desafiou os seguidores mais fiéis da marca."

Valentino | Gucci | Roberto Cavalli | Bottega Veneta | Prada

"Clément Chabernaud. Not only on this season. Great model, with a good body and very professional."


"Clément Chabernaud. Não apenas nesta temporada. Óptimo modelo, não só do ponto de vista físico como também profissional."

"The care and concern of this installation is just delicious. It looks like a masculine version of the 'woderful world of Tavi'. Weird, but adorable. With a bit of erotism and inocense. It makes me really fascinated. The shaded and bizarre ambient just attract me."


"Achei uma delícia o cuidado investido na instalação. Parecia uma versão masculina do 'maravilhoso mundo da Tavi'. Estranho, mas adorável. Um bocadinho de erotismo e inocência. Fico completamente deslumbrado. Aquele ambiente assombrado e bizarro atrai-me imenso!"

Marni | Christophe Lemair | Yohji Yamamoto | T by Alexander Wang

'Creation' meets Creator...

Diane Kruger and Raf Simons from Christian Dior

Há três tipos de editoriais que têm tudo para me fazer feliz! 

1. Os já típicos da Vogue Paris, habituais em inicio de época, com dezenas de páginas, cada uma dedicada a um designer, fotografados em diversos cenários.

2. Os editoriais com várias modelos juntas, em diferentes poses, com páginas consecutivas com diferentes temas, com um styling de arrepiar.

3. E os últimos, como este aqui representado. Os que mostram "a criação" e o criador lado-a-lado! Misturados com as suas "musas" e inspirações...

Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough from Proenza Schouler | Kateand Laura Mulleavy from Rodarte | David Neville and Marcus Wainright  from Rag&Bone

Peter Dundas from Emilio Pucci with Caroline Trentini | Peter Copping from Nina Ricci with actress Emilia Clarke and Erdem Moralioglu from Erdem with Ruth Wilson

A próxima "September Issue" da Vogue Americana, promete por si só ser uma edição de colecção... Com a Lady Gaga numa fabulosa capa, ultra bem vestida por Marc Jacobs numa exorbitante edição de 916 páginas (a maior edição do mundo, até hoje!).

Este editorial com o tema "The Vogue 120 - The Stylish Singers, Designers, Actors, Models, and More (Under 45) of the Moment." mostra-nos o melhor da Moda hoje em dia, em que já se incluí a futura geração de génios e meios! Sejam eles designers, modelos, actores ou cantores...

Sem dúvida, um completo objecto de desejo, a não perder!

Sarah Burton from Alexander McQueen with Karen Elson | Christopher Bailey from Burberry with Stella Tennant | Stella McCartney with Claudia Schiffer

Olivier Rousteign from Balmain with Chanel Iman | Joseph Altuzarra with Kate Upton | Anthony Vaccarello  with Candice Swanepoel

Riccardo Tisci from Givenchy with Rooney Mara | Phoebe Philo from Céline with Marie Piovesan | Nicholas Guésquiere from Balenciaga with Kristen Stewart

Models Carlie Kloss in Marchesa Liu Wen, Arizona Muse and Joan Smalls in Vera Wang

#RafSimons #DiorCouture

“I’m not interested in just doing couture that works in magazine pictures. I want it to be relevant.”

—	Raf Simons (After his first couture collection for Dior)

Raf Simons | FW2010 Fashion Show

Raf Simons | Fall Winter 2010 Fashion Show | Menswear
Paris Fashion Week


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