Pre-Fall'2014 | Collections

Lanvin and 3.1 Phillip Lim

In terms of Haute Couture - Summer'14 is Present

in Menswear - Fall'14 is Passed

in Womenwear - Fall'14 is Future

The only one that remains Continuous is Pre-Fall Collections that are coming one-by-one, since last month...

and some of them are in this post, as my favourites!

I can start with the great styling team in Lanvin, with fresh pieces in terms of cut, great tailoring and heritage of the house.

3.1 Phillip Lim always is unexpected, creating great shapes and organic collections, creating a smile in my eyes every time I got the opportunity to see them live.

But also, when we talk about great designers in the city of NY, we have to talk about Thakoon (a long time favourite of Mama Wintour); here with a collection very simple but very eye-catcher! Unexpected cuts in sweaters, assymetric shirts and beautiful prints.

One of the favourites, this time in Paris, is always the effortless stylish Chloé. Relaxed, Elegant and Flawless.The nudes take always a big part of the brand, and new designs in bags and shoes are great it-selling items.The pale-pinks made are a continuous fade from summer and the birkenstock-sandals, are still there. 

#Happy?

Thakoon and Chloé

Paris Fashion Week FallWinter'13 | Menswear

The Menswear from Paris, is always pleasurable and desirable. We can start from Dries Van Noten, Vuitton or Lanvin, but the 'trashy-chic' is always present in Masculine pieces, and Paris is just the perfect example!

This season we have new trends, new must-have pieces and an elegance that we can never compare.

Here's my favourite shows from Paris...

Lanvin

Dries Van Noten

Dries is always impecable in easyness. But this time, we just went too far! In such a good way.

The pieces are easy to wear, very comfortable, including intense dark colors in amazing patterns that we can see in trousers, jackets or even shirts. This 'easy-chic' is so desirable and tempting in cold days, that we can always dress like this.

I just loved the simple looks with white shirt, a simple sweat or blazer, trending with patter trousers and comfy shoes. Are you in?

Dries Van Noten

Givenchy

So Riccardo Tisci just gave us a very dark lesson! And you should better learn.

He said that he wanted to do a much more couture collection for Menswear (because Givenchy's Couture line won't be presented) introducing something chic and elegant, with new cuts and luxury materials, like cashmere or velvet.

We can notice an involvence with America, in sportive american jackets and patterns, but what I liked the most were the involvence of zippers in such a good pieces like shirts, jackets and amazing coats. I really want them! So couture-ish and elegant.

Givenchy

Louis Vuitton

This was GREAT! I simply want e-ve-ry-thing.
The concept was amazing, the styling was amazing and pieces were amazing. Louis Vuitton's Mesnwear is really becoming an extraordinary influence and point of view as we never had seen before.
The luxury/sportive way that the pieces are created is really magnificent. And the mixing of both, in the way that they do it! Just Beautiful.
Can I start my order-list? Oh-Gosh!

Louis Vuitton

Hermés

Hermés is having a great evolution process in Menswear.
The last collection, was by far my favourite, with great colors and and amazing sportive cuts.
This season, the man is more serious and Parisian. I notice that in turtle-necks, navy coats, white trousers and leather jackets! We can see Hermés becoming more younger, but standing in the same luxury position as before! In this show we noticed the amazing whatches and accessories, so familiar and recognixable from the Maison.
My favourite look? Obviously the second one on the picture. Simple, elegant accomplished by the beautiful whatch !

Hermés

Valentino

This is by far, my favourite collection from this season!
It's sad that we don't have details in pictures, but we can sure notice the flawless looks, in great styling and attitude from the renovated House of Valentino Garavani!
Since last collection, Valentino just don't get out of my mind with THESE sneakers, but now we really step forward. The navy-blue is amazing. But the cuts and materials from each piece just blows me away!
I really want that cape with the large leather stripe! I really want that next coat, and the all look! And also the blue sweater with the clutch... yeah, I really want it badly!!

Valentino

Lanvin

The Men from Lanvin is always straight forward.
This time Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz wanted to talk about propotion!
Usually the mens body don't have this aproach, but now they wanted to do it right but commercial.
This refresh was about large coats, oversized pants and new silhouettes. Also introducing technical fabrics in shirts, as we had seen before, creating transparencies and a new way of light, not so common in menswear.
And I really loved that mirror-clutch. So fresh and elegant!
Lanvin is never common, and thats why they always do what they believe even if it's extravagant.

Lanvin

Electric Holidays | Barneys New York

Barneys New York, asked Disney to colaborate with them on a video, mixing their iconic character's with people from Fashion industry in an hilarious and fascinating history around Paris!

You can watch real-life fashion players that make the industry what it is... Like Sarah Jessica Parker, Linda Evangelista, Pat McGraph (make-up artist), Steven Meisel (photographer) , Carine Roitfeld (fashion editor), Suzy Menkes (fashion editor), Alber Elbaz (designer of Lanvin), Nicolas Ghesquiére (designer of Balenciaga), Lady Gaga or even Naomi Campbell...


O Barneys New York, convidou a Disney para colaborar num filme animado que junta-se os seus desenhos animados mais icónicos com personalidades conhecidas da industria da Moda, numa hilariante e fascinante historia protagonizada em Paris!

Nela podem-se encontrar pessoas da vida real que fazem da Moda de hoje-em-dia o que ela tem de melhor... Como Sarah Jessica Parker, Linda Evangelista, Pat McGraph (maquilhadora), Steven Meisel (fotografo) , Carine Roitfeld (editora de moda), Suzy Menkes (editora de moda), Alber Elbaz (designer da Lanvin), Nicolas Ghesquiére (designer da Balenciaga), Lady Gaga ou até Naomi Campbell...

Anna Dello Russo

Cathy Horyn, Daphne Guiness, Carine Roitfeld and Naomi Campbell

Alber Elbaz

Emanuelle Alt, Franca Sozzani, Sarah Jessica Parker and Glenda Bailey

Lady Gaga in Marc Jacobs

You can buy online some of the special objects produced in colaboration with guests designers  (Paul Smith and DVF) only for this season at Barneys.com!

All here it's Fashion and breathe's style!!

I love it and I can whatching over and over again... ;)

Podes ainda comprar online objectos exclusivos, produzidos em colaboração com designers convidados (Paul Smith e DVF) especialmente para esta época em Barneys.com!

Aqui tudo é Moda e tudo respira Estilo!!

Eu amei o video e vou continuar a ver, mais uma e outra vez... ;)

Nicolas Ghesquiére wearing Mickey in Balenciaga

Paris Fashion Week | SpringSummer'13 ... Chloé, Céline and Lanvin

Paris continues to show us the golden list of best shows, and here are three more to count...

From the sweet lady Chloé., to the trashy cofident Céline and the powerful contemporary Lanvin. 

All of them are strong womens, walking the runway to show us some beautys...

Do you have favourites, so far? 

Chloé

Chloé since Clare Waight Keller is taking the lead, it's like a sweet dream... Beautiful pieces, soft colors, expert cuts and amazing accessories. Wich means: Great collections! 

I can tell a story of a very feminine women, very confident, with a soft smile. She is practical, cute and calm, and with such softness she's the looking center of every ladys at the office... "Did you see that bag? I love the color"!

She's the dream of many womens, beautifully elegant however, simply practical. That's the Chloé girl!

In this collection I  loved the soft and light materials, the contradition of transparencies in light fabrics with opaque colors in solid materials. The metallic shoes were 'terrific' and the bordeux handbag with 'pony-hair', is just another 'it-bag'!

Céline

The Céline girl is always dangerous. I imagine her rober a bank, right at the financial district, NY, and getting out of the building very confident and badass, in such a 'killer style' with furry-sandals, and her leather pouch full of million dolar diamonds. 

Oh, I'm seeing her walking down the street, kissing her hottest-boyfriend and living in a penthouse at the soho, full of art pieces!

Now talking about the show, I loved those long dresses with a strong cleavage, and the easyness of style that represents it. Just like the rest of the collection, it's all about a sexy oversized silhouette, comfortable shoes and easy bags! I loved the shades of soft pink and blue and the attractive furry yellow pumps. The simple clutch in leather reminds me of Jil Sander's paper bag, and it's beautiful!

Thank you Phoebe Philo for such a strong collection... We love the Céline women, always so challenging...

Lanvin

Alber Elbaz is the genious of  Lanvin. This time he elevates the fashion issue and show us much clean silhouettes, strong womens in clever styles. It's "a new start", said Elbaz. 

I can see a contemporary way to look at classicism. The tuxedo meet kimono at the belts is a sign. The art presented at the location and at the Greco-Roman statue prints at dresses is a way. But I always love the assimetries of Lanvin, the giant bows, smashy dresses and elegant accessories. The black swimsuit look with black trousers were the sexiest look of the show... Kasia Struss knows how to work it!

The clean and linear dresses at the end seemed to be origami inspired... And I start to think: Why women have to complicate? A simple look, at the end, just shows the brighter women...

"Every women wants to look and be like a star." -Alber Elbaz

Paris Fashion Week SS2013 | Menswear

Depois de Milão, voamos para norte e Paris apresenta-nos as suas colecções. Inovadoras, tecnológicas, surpreendentes e bastante desportivas...

O Verão chegou, mas calma porque este é só para o ano!

Givenchy

Ricardo Tiscci volta a esmerar-se para a Givenchy. Com uma colecção com bastante carácter religioso, contraditório chegando a tentar fazer de Madonna uma virgem, santa. Modelos apressados desfilaram tons que sempre rodearam o preto/branco, com alguns prints, também looks totais em rosa pálido e outros com acentos de vermelho foram notados. A imagem de marca da colecção fica sem duvida a camisa com a cara estampada, completada com gravata e casaco iguais, dando um efeito utópico, genial e único à colecção. Os volumes e as sobreposições também foram bastante notados, chegando a parecer que os modelos vestiam túnicas por cima de calças e com fatos de corte irrepreensível. Uma colecção bastante dinâmica e maravilhosamente bem estruturada, que apenas vem realçar o trabalho de Tiscci na Gicenchy.

Hermés

Ainda não tenho as palavras certas para falar da colecção da Hermés. Não sei bem o que se passou, mas sei que Véronique Nichanian esmerou-se e muito bem! Numa colecção impecável, simples e muito prática. Fazendo as expressões luxo e exclusividade chegar a um novo patamar com roupa extremamente prática e vestivel da maneira mais descontraída e simples que poderíamos imaginar. Inovando em materiais luxuosos aplicando-os em peças triviais como pele de crocodilo numa t-shirt preta, ou em neoprene de caxemira num blazer simples e de bom corte. Notei também um calçado bastante pratico envolvendo ténis, sapatos e slippers também em materiais luxuosos e maravilhosos. Basicamente conseguia vestir tudo nesta colecção. Notoriamente sem evidenciar a marca, mas estando o mais confortável possível.

Lanvin

Lucas Ossendrijver e Alber Elbaz transformaram o homem Lanvin em algo definitivamente mais maduro e completo. Criaram contradições nos volumes, nos tecidos e nas cores. Usualmente com colecções bastante apelativas cromaticamente, esta colecção manteve-se mais neutra, mas falou mais alto. Volumes em casacos estruturados com misturas de tecidos completamente invulgares, passando de preto/branco para metalizados, num homem mais moldado e decidido com um 'know-how' de 'sense-of-style' bem apurado e completamente a vontade com a sua maneira de ser. Uma das caracteristicas que me marcou mais na colecção foi sem duvida a mistura de 'piton' com 'nylon' em camisas, parkas e casacos. Algo completamente inesperado, mas que resultou tão bem que bem se pode repetir mais vezes!

Louis Vuitton

Kim Jones sabe definitivamente o que faz na Louis Vuitton. E fá-lo tão bem que só apetece ver mais e mais. Neste moento a cada estação que passa o desfile masculino da Louis Vuitton torna-se cada vez mais esperado e ansiado, porque já sabemos que traz novidades, coisas novas e uma nova perspectiva. E isso voltou a acontecer esta estação. Numa onda mais desportiva, mas luxuosa repleta de tecidos tecnológicos e peças inesperadas para uma marca tão histórica, o que o torna mais apetecível e não tão linear como de costume. Dando ênfase a desportos marinhos envolvendo coletes salva vidas em pele, fatos de neoprene e caxemira com detalhes neon. Acessórios luxuosos, mas descontraídos também em tons neon, como os oculos ou malas, completam a colecção e prometem ser um hit em vendas ligados ao publico de street-style que rodeia todas as fashion weeks! Can't wait to see it.

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten 'always impecable' tornou a trazer-nos o que de melhor sabe fazer. Para mim, esta não foi uma das suas melhores colecções, mas definitivamente o padrão camuflado não faz desviar o olhar. Os blocos de cor inesperados foram um dos pontos fortes da colecção e mais uma vez os tecidos tecnológicos voltam a dar de si, desta vez literalmente camuflados. A mistura de cores, de padrões e de tecidos trouxe uma identidade forte, realçada por cortes descontraídos. As minhas peças favoritas são exactamente as compostas por blocos de cor, como a t-shirt branca com verde, ou as calças azuis com laranja. Também as parkas camufladas transparentes que ficam genialmente bem por cima de qualquer peça branca, marcam e muito esta colecção.

Deixo-vos com este video do Style.com que faz uma breve review desta temporada em Paris, realçando o que de melhor se fez e as colecções mais faladas, passando também por estas que mencionei... Realço a apresentação de Thom Browne, completamente inesperada e divertida que trouxe o 'preppy' americano para Paris, em forma de baleias e tecidos em xadrez bem apelativos ao publico Japonês. Contraditório? 
It's Paris Fashion Week, baby!

Lanvin | Fall 2011 AdCampaign

Hello Everybody!

Alber Elbaz surprises us again with Lanvin, and creates one of the most fun campaigns of the season!!
The campaign has the face of Raquel Zimmermann and Karen Elson, makes us dance and drool for every garment carried by the models!

Olá a todos!

Alber Elbaz volta a surpreender com Lanvin, e cria uma das campanhas mais divertidas da estação!!
A campanha protagonizada por Raquel Zimmermann e Karen Elson, faz-nos dançar e "babar" por cada peça vestida pelos modelos!



The male campaign designed by Lucas Ossendrijver, it’s one of my favorites of the season and it has one of the statements for next winter… The turtleneck under shirts, which I love! :)

A campanha masculina desenhada por Lucas Ossendrijver, é uma das minha preferidas da estação e conta com uma das imagens de marca do próximo inverno... A gola alta por baixo das camisas, que eu adoro! :)



This campaign like many others, it’s accompanied by a video with the essence from the collection and label, with photography by Steven Meisel, it’s fa-bu-lous and shows us models dancing one of the pop summer hits (unusual in big labels campaigns) with choreography, where even Alber Elbaz himself dares to dance!!

Esta campanha como muitas outras agora, vem acompanhada por um video com toda a essência da colecção e da marca, este com fotografia de Steven Meisel, está fa-bu-loso e mostra-nos as modelos a dançar um dos hits pop do verão (nada comum em campanhas de grandes marcas!) com direito a coreografia, que até o próprio Alber Elbaz se atreve a dançar!!




I know i haven’t been present in a while, but starting September and the entrance of Fashion Weeks, the blog will go back to its normal pace… I promise, exclusives, lots of fun and lots of news!

Meanwhile I’m going to New York (YEAH!!!) and I’m going to have the privilege of watching some of the fashion shows from NY Fashion Week, so that later I can tell you everything and describe you this dream which is about to come true! ;)

Eu sei que não estive presente nestes últimos tempos, mas a partir de Setembro com a entrada das Fashion Weeks, o blog vai voltar ao ritmo anterior... Prometo exclusivos, muita animação e muitas novidades!

Entretanto vou a Nova Iorque (YEAH!!!) e vou ter o privilégio de assistir a alguns desfiles da NY Fashion Week, para depois contar aqui tudo e descrever-vos este sonho que se vai realizar! ;)

Paris Fashion Week | Fall Winter 2011 »Part II«

This is the last post about the international Fashion Weeks, for the Fall 2011/2012.

Hope you like my opinion about these shows...

Enjoy it!

P.S. I’ll soon post my coverage of ModaLisboa and Portugal Fashion (and I have so much to tell you!).For the past three weeks my time was zero, but now I’ll try to show you, how it was my experience in the two most important events of fashion in Portugal.

Haider Ackerman, in my opinion it’s the new 'big name' of the Fashion Industry (even Karl Lagerfeld, said it!). He came up with a new

silhouette with a very interesting design. Introduced colors like dark greens and petrol blue (wich I love!). My favorite look of this collection

is shown above in the middle. I love it! And don't forget, put Ackerman on the top of the it-list! He's the new 'big name'!!

Hermés, is no longer in the hands of Gaultier... now Christophe Lemaire is taking the lead, and he's here to succeed. His first collection

with a nomadic notion of travel, inspired on the orientalism, emerged with soft colors like white, browns, greys and little touches of the

classic orange of this 'maison'. A simple collection but a new discover to the world of Hermés, showed at the new Hermés flag.ship in Paris.

Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs are the perfect duo, and this collection proves it. Marc Jacobs is in arch provocateur mode, exploring and

exploding the meaning of fetishes. My favorite pieces of the collection were, the rubber dominatrix boots (instant hit), see-through flasher

macs, and let's not forget the lace-ups that exposed a bare expanse of Kate Moss' thighs below retro briefs.

Lanvin by Alber Elbaz is always a high moment of Fashion Week, the entire Fall collection was about the endless problems, of working with

one of fashion's most mystique-laden fabrics (Gazar), that Elbaz says is "So difficult" to work! But it seems so easy... sumptuous

silhouettes with perfect cuts are everywhere. Shiny colors like yellow, orange or fluo pink were worn at the end of the show, creating the

perfect scenery for the closer of this story! Love it, as always..

Jean Paul Gaultier, message for this show was: 'You're never too old for a little striptease.' Models and guests could prove this rule in

the Gaultier show, Models doing it and the guests enjoying the scene! Trench-coats in leather and wool, leather gloves and so many

special clothes ended up on the same place, the floor. But nobody got worried, because this is Fashion. This is Gaultier!

Valentino is taking the lead! In the hands of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, the romantic style and the nudes have become a

new signature of the house, just like the studs in the shoes and dresses. The silhouette is simple and clear, like a t-shirt, and this makes

sense to the women of today. This is for a woman who doesn't have a red carpet to walk every night of the week.

Stella McCartney, continues the trend introduced a month before at the Marc Jacobs show in New York. The polka-dots! This trend was

shown by Stella with a lot of transparencies, making the feminine silhouette more special and sensual. These sexy dresses will be definitely

a popular trend to follow next Fall. Also shiny clothes in gold and silver made this show evolve "to the next level", said Stella, with

aggressive, masculine silhouettes, in dresses, jumpsuits and coats.

Yves Saint Laurent in the headed by Stefano Pilati, continues with the rigor and the sensuality of, the masculine silhouette into the

women wardrobe. With the sense of strict elegance in black and white, visiting the 60's and the 70's at Saint Laurent. A simple, but

powerful architecture. That's it.

Here's a video from Style.com with the Highlights from this Paris Fashion Week...

Paris | Men's Fashion Week »Part II«

This is »Part II« of my favourite collections of Paris Menswear Fashion Week!

Here i show you:
*Louis Vuitton with desirable bags (as always), in new colours like the a.ma.zing orange in the bags and pants, and (of course!) the magnificent eyewear, that is a trully Must-Have item to 2011/2012Winter season.

*Lanvin, with a marvelous way of layers, with 'turtle-neck sweaters' under a white shirt, which are under a cashmere pullover, and all of this layers are under a beautifull blazer! AWESOME!!!

*Givenchy, that gave us a 'gangsta' collection, with many things that are common in the womans wardrobe, like boots laced up to the knee, and collants under black shorts. Riccardo Tisci puts them in the men's ones to! A trully unexpectable collection with pitbull prints, that in this second are the most wanted items of many guys!

*Balmain, that comes with a collection whitout runwayshow! But with a magnific styling, wich put in the collection a great sense of style and colour/textile mixing. Navy and millitary coats, are the trend of the season (for this brand!), with always a great scarf. I think that the camel coat with fur, are now on the wishlist of soo many people! (Not in mine, btw!)



Louis Vuitton
You know that scene at the beginning of 2001: A Space Odyssey, when they are flying Pan Am Airlines to the moon? That's kinda like the clothes in this Louis Vuitton collection this season: Suits and jackets that are modern but also a bit ahead of the curve, a bit in the future. Clothes that are not for mere plebian jet-setters, but true rocket-setters. When Richard Branson begins regular space flights on Virgin Rockets, we imagine a fair amount of the passengers will be dressed in Vuitton.


Lanvin
You got your full, wide pants and you got your slim pants. That, in a nutshell, is this collection: a mix of opposites. Where a man can wear a dusty-rose jacket, but also a strong fitted black suit or topcoat. It's a lush-feeling collection with a dose of '70s glam and swagger.


Givenchy
Think of it as Samurai B-Boy. Clothes that are rough in their roots (skater-like shorts over black tights) but refined in their cut. These are duds made for dudes like Kanye and Drake: Guys who are not shy about wearing bold tailored classics with an extra wattage of rockstar, featuring pitbull prints, monochromatic mixing, finishes of fur and boots laced up to the knee, and beyond. These clothes are not afraid to swagger.


Balmain
Christophe Decarnin likes to say Balmain Homme isn't a collection; it's a wardrobe. The military jackets that were such a sensation for the ladies have their analogues here in silver-buttoned peacoats. There's a big emphasis on outerwear in this Fall collection, including a raccoon-hooded parka and an enormous shearling coat. The brand's big splash came from its stretchy, paneled Biker jeans, which are here again, but so is a simpler, straight-leg model of Japanese extraction. Styled in piled-on layers, Decarnin's look can be very aggressive. But piece by piece, its simplicity is its strength.


Photos from Style.com

(the text's are from GQ.com)